16 News found

On 20/09/2025 Titus Prinoth completed a trad ascent of Menhir, the legendary route established by Christof Hainz in 1992 and freed a year later by Hanspeter Eisendle on the Menhir Pillar at the Mëisules dala Beisces (Sella, Dolomites). The 27-year-old South Tyrolean alpinist reports about his greenpoint ascent of this...

The development of Gola di Mikado, a beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia, has been completed thanks to a crowdfunding campaign. All the details directly from Maurizio Oviglia, who bolted the routes together with Antonio Iaria and Tatjana Goex

Alessandro Larcher reports about his greenpoint ascent of Bombo Balla at Bus de Vela above Trento, Italy. Put in other words, the Italian rock climber repeated the 8b+ sport climb in October 2020 skipping the bolts and as a trad climb.

On Monte Arista in Sardinia, Italy, Simone Desogus and Maurizio Oviglia have made the first ascent of the crack climb Black Lives Matter.

The video of Belgian rock climber Sean Villanueva repeating 'Der Ungeheuer sei Mutter', a difficult and somewhat particular trad climb at the Vogelherdgrotte crag in the Frankenjura, Germany.

At the limestone crag Kotečnik in Slovenia Jernej Kruder has made a trad ascent of the 8b+ sport climb 'Umazana Igra'.

Interview with Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl after the first free ascent of Gondo Crack at the crag Cippo in Switzerland. The duo freed the route as an 8c sport climb and then did without the bolts and climbed the route with nuts and friends to produce one of the...

Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.

Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.

Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c at Osso (Piemonte, Italy) freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012, this time greenpoint ie skipping the bolts and using trad gear to protect the climb. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.

At Balmanolesca in NW Italy James Pearson made the first repeat, and first trad ascent, of A Denti Stretti 8b+, while at nearby Cadarese Caroline Ciavaldini made a trad ascent of Grazie Rickie 8a+ .

Three new trad routes at the Garibaldi in south-east Sardinia, first ascended by Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia.

Video of Heiko Queitsch climbing Magnet and other famous routes in the Frankenjura greenpoint, without bolts and with trad gear.

On 06/11/2011 Patrick Matros established Archon, an 8b trad route in the Frankenjura, Germany.

German climber Heiko Queitsch has climbed the famous Frankenjura routes Fight Gravity (by Kurt Albert) and Chasin the Train (by John Bachar) without using the bolts but with trad gear.

Interview with French climber Arnaud Petit after his greenpoint, ie trad ascent, of the 8b sport climb Black Bean at Ceuse in France.