184 News found

News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.

On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.

Rolando Garibotti and the interview and meeting with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, the Norwegian alpinist who in December 2011 together with Ole Lied established the route Venas Azules up the South Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia.

On 5 October the Mountain Kingdom Cho Oyu expedition returned to Kathmandu, unfortunately without having reached the 8201m summit of the Turquoise Goddess. Fabrizio Beozzi managed the first ski descent of the Messner variation from 6900m to 6000m.

Slovenian alpinists Urban Novak, David Debeljak, Luka Strazar and Nejc Marcic have established Dreamers of the Golden Caves up the K7 (6934m) in the Charakusa valley, (Karakoram, Himalaya).

The 2010 video filmed by Jim Surette of American climber Steve House as he solos two classic icefalls, Repentance and Remission in New Hampshire, USA.

In June 2011 the Italian alpinists Fabrizio Manoni, Enrico Rosso and Paolo Stoppini established two new routes on Nevado Santa Cruz in the Andes, Peru.

At the end of July Slovene climbers Ales Holc, Peter Juvan and Igor Kremser made the first ascent of on Xuelian North-East (6249m), in the Xuelian Feng range, Tien Shan, China via their route Arête of Trust (ED2, AI5, M5+).

On 24/05/2011 Fabio Meraldi and Diego Giovannini established a new route up the East Spur of Kahiltna Peaks West (3914m, McKinley-Denali mountain chain, Alaska).

On 01/05/2011 Joshua Lavigne and Raphael Slawinski made the first ascent of Tsunami (300 m, M5 WI5+) on Mt Patterson in Canada's Rocky Mountains.

At 13.40 Nepalese time Italian mountain Guide Abele Blanc reached the summit of Annapurna (8091m, Nepal, Himalaya). In doing so he has now ascended all 14 8000ers, and is the third Italian to do so without supplementary oxygen.

Two recent descents of the North Face of the Aiguille du Plan (Mont Blanc), by Julien Herry, Lionel Hachemy and Roch Malnuit on 07/04/2011 and, a day later, by Davide Capozzi, Luca Rolli and Francesco Civra. With skis and snowboards down a face which has extremely few descents.

An in-depth interview with 26-year-old American alpinist Colin Haley, to discover his approach to alpinism, from Alaska to Patagonia.

Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now reached Base Camp after an arduous descent during which they were hit by an avalanche. This historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan) now draws to a close.

After yesterday's historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan), Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now descended from Camp 3 to Camp 1.

Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards plan to set off from their Camp 3 at 6900m tonight for their first attempt at reaching the summit of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan).