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Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
01/07/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
The fourth IFSC World Cup stage of the season took place in Innsbruck, Austria last week. Boulder was won by Janja Garnbret and Amagasa Sohta, while Lead was won by Garnbret and Jakob Schubert.
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
21/06/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
On 5 June 2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz made the first ascent of 'Persefone Extension', a new extreme drytooling climb in the Gran Borna cave at La Thuile in Italy. 54 meters long and graded D15, the route was established DTS style and is dedicated to his late friend...
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Katherine Choong sends La Fiesta de Los Metallos, 8b mp in the Verdon
14/06/2024 - Climbing
Katherine Choong sends La Fiesta de Los Metallos, 8b mp in the Verdon
Last Monday Swiss climber Katherine Choong repeated 'La Fiesta de Los Metallos', the 200m 8b located in the Verdon Gorge, France.
Andreas Hofherr repeats Into the Sun, 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland
13/06/2024 - Climbing
Andreas Hofherr repeats Into the Sun, 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland
Austrian competition climber Andreas Hofherr has repeated 'Into the Sun' the 8c+ trad in Murgtal, Switzerland, established by Bernd Zangerl in 2017 and previously repeated only by Jacopo Larcher (2021). Hofherr reports.
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
09/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: The Disturbing Rise and fall of Dean Potter
The video portrait of Dean Potter, one of the world’s leading climbers who lost his life on 16/05/2015 aged 43 in a wingsuit accident in Yosemite Valley, USA, together with Graham Hunt.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was established in December 2018 by Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
28/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
Eddie Fowke reports about the first leg of the Olympic Qualifier Series held in Shanghai 10 days ago. The second leg will take place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June and the combined results will enable the world’s best competition climbers to gain a place for the Paris...
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
09/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
Thursday 9 May, the second day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. A day marked by sun, boulders, projects, pads and pizzoccheri.
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
29/04/2024 - Climbing
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
British climber Mat Wright has repeated Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006.