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Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
17/11/2022 - Alpinism
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
On 11/11/2022 Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel started their winter climbing season early with the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Frigo-combo' (M7/6a, 450m) on the NW Face of Douves Blanches (Point 3582m) above Val d'Arolla in Switzerland. Schüpbach...
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who...
Seb Bouin repeats Jumbo Love, Chris Sharma's 9b at Clark Mountain
25/10/2022 - Climbing
Seb Bouin repeats Jumbo Love, Chris Sharma's 9b at Clark Mountain
French rock climber Sébastien Bouin has made a rare repeat of Jumbo Love, the 9b at Clark Mountain, USA, first ascended by Chris Sharma in 2008.
New mixed climb on Central Breithorn by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli
23/10/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Central Breithorn by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli
On 13/10/2022 François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of 'Essere o non essere', a new mixed climb up the north face of Central Breithorn.
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar...
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
12/10/2022 - Alpinism
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
Barbara Vigl reports about her winter ascent, carried out with David Göttler in March 2022, of the NNW Ridge of Monviso in Italy. The first winter ascent was carried out by Patrick Berhault in 2001, as Ivo Ferrari explains in...
Solène Amoros, Katherine Choong repeat Ali Baba at Aiglun in France
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Solène Amoros, Katherine Choong repeat Ali Baba at Aiglun in France
French rock climber Solène Amoros and Katherine Choong from Switzerland have repeated the mythical multipitch sport climb Ali Baba (8a+, 240m) at Aiglun in France.
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it...
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West...
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
23/09/2022 - Alpinism
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
Belayed by Jonathan Lechner, on 31/08/2021 Austrian climber Louis Gundolf repeated 'Safety Discussion', a difficult multipitch established in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner on the South Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria.
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
22/09/2022 - Alpinism
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
On the south face of Cima Roma (Brenta Dolomites) Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana and Alberto Fedrizzi have made the first ascent of 'Caput Mundi' (360m, VII). Pavana and Beber pro idea the details.
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
21/09/2022 - Interviews
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
British mountaineer Tim Howell has completed his ambitious North Base Project which aimed to climb and fly the six great North Faces of the Alps. Depending on the mountain, the 33-year-old Brit either made a wingsuit flight or BASE jump....
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
20/09/2022 - Alpinism
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
Patrick Tirler from the South Tyrol, Italy, reports about the first ascent of 'Ak-Kalpak' on Little Asan in the Kara-Su Valley in the Karavshin area of Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai, carried out this summer with Moritz Sigmund.
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first...
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik...