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Tom Hornbein, 1963 Everest West Ridge pioneer, dies aged 92
08/05/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, 1963 Everest West Ridge pioneer, dies aged 92
Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his groundbreaking first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, has died aged 92.
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
28/04/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
British mountaineer Livingstone reports about his January ascent with Rob Smith of the North-West face of Aiguille du Blaitiere (3522m) in the Mont Blanc massif. In all likelihood the second half of their climb shares the line ascended by Joe Brown and Don Whillans in summer 1954.
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
27/04/2023 - Alpinism
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai and Marco Toldo belonging to the Roccia 4 Gatti di Arsiero mountaineering club have climbed the enormous icefall located inside the Brezno pod Velbom cave, at an altitude of 2050m on the Slovenian side of Monte Canin. Dellai reports of the repeat of what is considered...
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
11/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
Over a three day period Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, 'Aim for the bushes' (AI6M6X 5250).
Watch Robbie Phillips & Alex Moore climb three Scottish seastacks in 24 hours
04/04/2023 - Climbing
Watch Robbie Phillips & Alex Moore climb three Scottish seastacks in 24 hours
The film 'Stacked' featuring Robbie Phillips and Alex Moore attempting to climb in a single day the three seastacks 'The Old Man of Hoy', 'Am Buichaille', and 'The Old Man of Stoer'.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton makes first ascent of new route in Morocco
20/03/2023 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton makes first ascent of new route in Morocco
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, together with Molly Thompson and Paul Donnithorne, has the first ascent of the 100m multi-pitch rock climb 'Eye Disappear' at Heavy Rock in the Anti-Atlas mountains of Morocco
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
33rd Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest winners announced
06/03/2023 - Book-press
33rd Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest winners announced
The Grand Prize of the 33rd edition of the Memorial Maria Luisa Photo contest was awarded to Luis Vilariño López for his photo entitled Rayo Sobre Turret Arch.
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
02/03/2023 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Corti-Battaglia first winter ascent by David Hefti, Marcel Schenk
On 14 February 2023 Swiss mountaineers David Hefti and Marcel Schenk made the coveted first winter ascent of the Corti-Battaglia route on Pizzo Badile (3308m). Established in 1953 by Claudio Corti and Felice Battaglia, this climb was the first to breach the mountain's east face. Schenk, who in 2016 established...
New big wall climb on Cerro El Monstruo in Valle Cochamo by Antar Machado, Cristobal Senoret
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Cerro El Monstruo in Valle Cochamo by Antar Machado, Cristobal Senoret
From 8 - 9 February 2023 Antar Machado and Cristobal Señoret have made the first ascent of 'La Chilenita' (1,200m 5.11+ A0) on Cerro El Monstruo, Valle Cochamo, Patagonia, Chile.
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grand Pic de Belledonne, Thibault Sibille completes first winter solo of Voie Rébuffat
Between 5 and 8 February 2023 the French mountain guide Thibault Sibille carried out the first winter solo of the Rébuffat route (Michel Chevalier, Gaston Rébuffat 26/07/1944) on the NW face of Grand Pic de Belledonne (2977m) in the Dauphiné Alps.
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
12,330 meters of altitude gain and a 138 km integral traverse, over a period of two days, solo, across the Queyras mountains from Vars to Villard. This, in short, is the ski mountaineering traverse carried out by French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines at the start of the new year.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...
Simon Lorenzi repeats Alphane (9A) at Chironico, Switzerland
21/12/2022 - Climbing
Simon Lorenzi repeats Alphane (9A) at Chironico, Switzerland
25-year-old Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has made the fourth ascent of Alphane, the 9A boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022 and repeated in October by Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi.
The call of the Siren / Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
21/12/2022 - Alpinism
The call of the Siren / Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The call of the Siren, the film by Fulvio Mariani which documents the Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer, is online until 26 December.

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