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Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
22/09/2022 - Alpinism
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
On the south face of Cima Roma (Brenta Dolomites) Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana and Alberto Fedrizzi have made the first ascent of 'Caput Mundi' (360m, VII). Pavana and Beber pro idea the details.
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
21/09/2022 - Interviews
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
British mountaineer Tim Howell has completed his ambitious North Base Project which aimed to climb and fly the six great North Faces of the Alps. Depending on the mountain, the 33-year-old Brit either made a wingsuit flight or BASE jump. The Eiger, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Petit Dru,...
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
20/09/2022 - Alpinism
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
Patrick Tirler from the South Tyrol, Italy, reports about the first ascent of 'Ak-Kalpak' on Little Asan in the Kara-Su Valley in the Karavshin area of Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai, carried out this summer with Moritz Sigmund.
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
29/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have established a new route on Nevado Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru. The complex line is called Reino Hongo and graded 5.8/90°/M7.
Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall repeat The Quarryman on Llanberis slate in Wales
21/07/2022 - Climbing
Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall repeat The Quarryman on Llanberis slate in Wales
Both Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall have repeated The Quarryman, the Johnny Dawes classic located in the Dinorwig slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales.
PlanetMountain.com and the future
28/06/2022 - Events
PlanetMountain.com and the future
Vinicio Stefanello leaves planetmountain.com. The site, which for 22 years has been a reference point for all those who love the mountains, mountaineering and climbing, continues under the leadership of Nicholas Hobley.
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
23/06/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande in Peru the new objective for Matteo Della Bordella and Italian High Mountain Military Corps
Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula Grande.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Changabang West Wall repeated after 46 years by Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Matthew Scholes
09/05/2022 - Alpinism
Changabang West Wall repeated after 46 years by Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Matthew Scholes
Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes from Australia and Daniel Joll from New Zealand have made the coveted second ascent of the West Wall of Changabang (6880m) in India, first climbed by British mountaineers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976.
Soline Kentzel & Seb Berthe repeat Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
26/04/2022 - Alpinism
Soline Kentzel & Seb Berthe repeat Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
Soline Kentzel from France and Sébastien Berthe have made a free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
30/03/2022 - Interviews
Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
Interview with Andrea Lanfri, the Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca recently arrived in Nepal with mountain guide Luca Montanari to attempt to climb Everest
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
18/03/2022 - Alpinism
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
From 21 to 23 February Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez completed the skyline traverse of Grupo La Paz in the Cordillera Riesco in Patagonia, Chile. The trio climbed ‘Ayayema Wesqar’ alpine style from west to east past difficulties up to 5.11- and bivied two nights in between the...
Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn & Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten climbed in Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
17/03/2022 - Alpinism
Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn & Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten climbed in Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
The report by Swiss mountaineer Silvan Schüpbach who recently established two new mixed climbs in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn with Janluca Kostner and Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten with Michel Kipf and Tizian Tobler.