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Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
10/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
Friday 9 May, the third day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. Lots of sun, lots of smiles and bouldering until the batteries ran out.
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
09/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
Thursday 9 May, the second day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. A day marked by sun, boulders, projects, pads and pizzoccheri.
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
08/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
Melloblocco 2024 day 1: the biggest bouldering meeting in the world officially begins today in Northern Italy, and Val Masino and Val di Mello have already welcomed the first climbers.
Ski mountaineering giant Denis Trento perishes in Italian Alps
06/05/2024 - Alpinism
ski mountaineering giant Denis Trento perishes in Italian Alps
The Italian mountain guide and former ski mountaineering champion Denis Trento perished on Friday at the age of 41 on the north face of Testa del Paramont in Valle d'Aosta.
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
27/04/2024 - Climbing
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
20 years ago today, on April 28, 2004, the great French climber and mountaineer Patrick Berhault died while attempting to complete the 82 4000ers of the Alps in 82 days. The tribute by his friend Alessandro Grillo.
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
On 25/03/2024 Franz Anstein, Federico Maremonti and Andreas Tonelli skied what is likely to be a new line on Piz de Puez in the Dolomites, Italy. Called 'Canal sëura l uët', this couloir provides difficulties in the region of 5.1 E4, as Anstein explains in his report.
Emily Harrop & Thibault Anselmet win Mixed Relay at Cortina Ski Mountaineering World Cup
11/04/2024 - Alpinism
Emily Harrop & Thibault Anselmet win Mixed Relay at Cortina ski Mountaineering World Cup
France's Emily Harrop & Thibault Anselmet won the Mixed Relay at Cortina, Italy, yesterday during the fourth and final day of the ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024. Austrians Johanna Hiemer and Paul Verbnjak placed second, ahead of the Italians Alba De Silvestro and Michele Boscacci.
Emily Harrop and Thibault Anselmet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Sprint
10/04/2024 - Competitions
Emily Harrop and Thibault Anselmet win ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Sprint
The last stage of the 2024 ski Mountaineering World Cup Sprint World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, on Monday and was won by Emily Harrop and Thibault Anselmet from France who also claimed the overall season title. The last competition of the season, the Mixed relay, takes place...
Emily Harrop, Rémi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Individual
08/04/2024 - Competitions
Emily Harrop, Rémi Bonnet win ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Individual
The last stage of the 2024 Individual World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, on Sunday and was won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret from France and Remi Bonnet from Swtizerland. The overall season title was won by Bonnet and Emily Harrop from France.
Sarah Dreier and Remi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Vertical
06/04/2024 - Competitions
Sarah Dreier and Remi Bonnet win ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Vertical
The last stage of the 2024 Vertical World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, today and was won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret from France and Remi Bonnet from Swtizerland. The overall season title was won by Bonnet and Sarah Dreier from Austria.

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