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Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
06/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
The prize for the best climb of 2012 was awarded at the end of an exciting ceremony in Courmayeur last night to all six nominated ascents. The Piolet d'Or Walter Bonatti Lifetime Achievement Award was given to Austria's Kurt Diemberger.
Arc'teryx Alpine Arc'ademy at Chamonix in June 2013
05/04/2013 - Alpinism
Arc'teryx Alpine Arc'ademy at Chamonix in June 2013
The Arc'teryx Alpine Arc'ademy will take place from 14 - 16 June in Chamonix: a unique opportunity to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly on Mont Blanc.
Sass Dlacia north couloir in the Dolomites
Sass Dlacia north couloir in the Dolomites
On 04/04/2013 Francesco Tremolada and Norbert Frenademetz skied the North Couloir of Sass Dlacia in the Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
22/03/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
The Jury motivation for the special mention assigned to Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, David Lama and Peter Ortner which will be awarded during the 21st Piolet d'Or, scheduled to take place from 3 - 6 April 2013 at Courmayeur and Chamonix at the foot of Mont Blanc.
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
07/03/2013 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.
Dolomites ski mountaineering: the Puez Odle group
Dolomites ski mountaineering: the Puez Odle group
Four ski mountaineering routes in the Puez Odle group of the Dolomites presented by Enrico Baccanti and Francesco Tremolada, Alta Badia Guides: Antersasc North Gully, Crep da le Dodesc, Munt da Medalges, Sass da Putia East Face
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this latest success a staggering 9 first winter ascents of the...
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
04/03/2013 - Alpinism
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
On Saturday 2 March 2013, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of a new route which, for the first time ever, breaches the West Face of Torre Egger (Cerro Torre massif, Patagonia).
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
01/03/2013 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
The thoughts about alpinism in Patagonia by Hansjörg Auer who this season, apart from establishing a new route up Aguja Guillaumet with Mario Walder, suddenly had to battle hard against the infamous Patagonian storms.
Robert Jasper adds difficult mixed climb to Breitwangflue at Kandersteg
26/02/2013 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper adds difficult mixed climb to Breitwangflue at Kandersteg
On 13/02/2013 Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the ice and mixed climb Ritter der Kokosnuß (M12, WI5, 165m) up the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Frigor Couloir, first descent on Petite Aiguille Verte by Vivian Bruchez and Jonathan Charlet
Frigor Couloir, first descent on Petite Aiguille Verte by Vivian Bruchez and Jonathan Charlet
On 17/02/2013 the Frenchmen Vivian Bruchez and Jonathan Charlet made the first descent of the Frigor Couloir on Petite Aiguille Verte in the Mont Blanc massif.
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
06/02/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award
From 3 - 6 April 2013 Courmayeur and Chamonix will be the world's capital of alpinism thanks to the 21st Piolets d’Or, the international award dedicated to alpinism.
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
06/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
31/01/2013 - Climbing
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
20/01/2013 - Alpinism
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey
The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).

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