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New Peak District gritstone climbs by Tom Randall
07/04/2013 - Climbing
New Peak District gritstone climbs by Tom Randall
At Hallmoor Quarry in England's Peak District British climber Tom Randall has made the first ascent of Soft Parade E6 6b, while at Gardoms Edge he established Porride Egg E6 6a and Nah'han E8 6c.
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
06/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
The prize for the best climb of 2012 was awarded at the end of an exciting ceremony in Courmayeur last night to all six nominated ascents. The Piolet d'Or Walter Bonatti Lifetime Achievement Award was given to Austria's Kurt Diemberger.
Sardinia's needles: two rock climbs by Maurizio Oviglia
04/04/2013 - Climbing
Sardinia's needles: two rock climbs by Maurizio Oviglia
The report by Maurizio Oviglia about two beautiful needles in Sardinia: the recently restored Dillosauro 6b+, first climbed by Enzo Lecis in 1995 and Sinfonia del mulino bianco, the new route established together with Giorgio Caddeo above Baunei.
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
02/04/2013 - Alpinism
L'Onda di Hokusai, the great new route up Molignon di Dentro in the Dolomites by Angelo and Tonelli
Andreas Tonelli reports about L'Onda di Hokusai (750m, WI5+, 60°, M3), the new route he forged together with Philipp Angelo up the NE Face of Molignon di Dentro, Rosengarten, Dolomites.
Pinocchio, new mixed climb in Val Travenanzes
28/03/2013 - Alpinism
Pinocchio, new mixed climb in Val Travenanzes
Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler have made the first free ascent of Pinocchio (M8+, WI 5), a mixed climb in Val Travenanzes (Dolomites) put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr.
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
22/03/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter
The Jury motivation for the special mention assigned to Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, David Lama and Peter Ortner which will be awarded during the 21st Piolet d'Or, scheduled to take place from 3 - 6 April 2013 at Courmayeur and Chamonix at the foot of Mont Blanc.
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
12/03/2013 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
In February 2013 the Italian climbers Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi and Andrea Zaffaroni made the first ascent of Perdidos en el Mundo (870m, 23 pitches, 7b+, 6c+ obligatory) up the north face of Cerro Walwalun in Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile. The story by Mirko Masè.
Leopoldo Faria climbs Portugal's first 9a at Sagres
12/03/2013 - Climbing
Leopoldo Faria climbs Portugal's first 9a at Sagres
At the sea cliff Sagres Leopoldo Faria has made the first ascent of Peixe Porco, the first 9a sport climb in Portugal.
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
11/03/2013 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
They come from France, Britain, Russia, the United States and Japan and all made beautiful and difficult climb up highest mountains in the world: the candidates for the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious international mountaineering award which will take place from 3 to 6 April 2013...
Dolomites ski mountaineering: the Puez Odle group
Dolomites ski mountaineering: the Puez Odle group
Four ski mountaineering routes in the Puez Odle group of the Dolomites presented by Enrico Baccanti and Francesco Tremolada, Alta Badia Guides: Antersasc North Gully, Crep da le Dodesc, Munt da Medalges, Sass da Putia East Face
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
04/03/2013 - Alpinism
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
On Saturday 2 March 2013, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of a new route which, for the first time ever, breaches the West Face of Torre Egger (Cerro Torre massif, Patagonia).
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
01/03/2013 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
The thoughts about alpinism in Patagonia by Hansjörg Auer who this season, apart from establishing a new route up Aguja Guillaumet with Mario Walder, suddenly had to battle hard against the infamous Patagonian storms.
Attraverso Travenanzes, new icefall in Val Travenanzes by Ballico and Gamberini
27/02/2013 - Alpinism
Attraverso Travenanzes, new icefall in Val Travenanzes by Ballico and Gamberini
On 16 February 2013 Beppe Ballico and Andrea Gamberini made the first ascent of Attraverso Travenanzes (120m, III, WI5+) a new icefall at the Supermario sector in Val Travenanzes which, once again, confirms itself as being an eldorado for ice climbing not only in the Dolomites but further afield, too....
MacLeod adds two new winter climbs to Ben Nevis
26/02/2013 - Alpinism
MacLeod adds two new winter climbs to Ben Nevis
Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of two new winter climbs on Ben Nevis in Scotland, White Noise M10+/M11 and The Snotter VIII,8.
Robert Jasper adds difficult mixed climb to Breitwangflue at Kandersteg
26/02/2013 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper adds difficult mixed climb to Breitwangflue at Kandersteg
On 13/02/2013 Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the ice and mixed climb Ritter der Kokosnuß (M12, WI5, 165m) up the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
25/02/2013 - Climbing
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed...