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Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
06/06/2010 - Competitions
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
More than 500 young athletes aged 5 -13 from 20 different countries made the ninth edition of the Rock Junior a success. Chris Sharma, one of the greatest climbers of all times, paid homage to the world's biggest youth climbing event.
Rock Junior, the first day of the European climbing festival
05/06/2010 - Events
Rock Junior, the first day of the European climbing festival
The first day of the Arco Rock Junior was marked by sun and climbing. More than 400 climbers took part in the Under 14 Cup and the Climbing Campus. This year's exceptional testimonial was star climber Chris Sharma.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Melloblocco 2010
12/05/2010 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2010
Melloblocco 2010 turned out to be a success once again. Despite the bad weather 1900 registered climbers took part in the world's largest bouldering meeting in Val di Mello, Italy from 6 - 9 May 2010. The valley was visited by a circa 3500 boulderers, as can be read in...
Trento FilmFestival 2010
30/04/2010 - Events
Trento FilmFestival 2010
From 29 April to 9 May the oldest mountain film festival in the world unfolds in Trento, Italy. For the third year runniing Planetmountain directs the unique WebTV.
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
30/04/2010 - Book-press
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
Wolverine Publishing is due to launch the first comprehensive iPhone app for Red River Gorge in Kentucky, USA. Planetmountain took a brief look at this new digital content.
Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
26/04/2010 - Climbing
Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
The official website of the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011 in Arco is now online. The portal also hosts all the information about the next edition of the classic Rock Master competition which has been brought forward to July 2010 as a World Championship pre-event.
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
    19/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
    On 17 April Edurne Pasaban from Spain's Basque country reached the summit of Annapurna, her 13th 8000m peak, while Joao Garcia from Portugal completed the collection of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Asier Izaguirre, Alex Chicón, Nacho Orviz and the Sherpa Mingma, Pasang and Gempu from the Pasaban...
    Joshua Tree climbing testpiece repeated by Chris Lindner
    15/04/2010 - Climbing
    Joshua Tree climbing testpiece repeated by Chris Lindner
    Video of Chris Linder making the second ascent of The Dunce Cap 5.13a at Joshua Tree.
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    26/03/2010 - Climbing
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
    Norway ice climbing trip for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
    12/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Norway ice climbing trip for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
    Ice climbing to ice climbing around the Lyngen Fjord in Norway by Albert Leichtfreid from Austria.
    When icefalls crack
    25/02/2010 - Alpinism
    When icefalls crack
    The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
    Simon Carter – climbing photography video
    17/02/2010 - Climbing
    Simon Carter – climbing photography video
    Climbing photographer Simon Carter explains the tricks of the trade in this interesting short video clip.

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