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Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this...
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
19/12/2012 - Alpinism
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m,...
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
13/12/2012 - Alpinism
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
Luigi 'Gigi' Dal Pozzo passed away on Monday 10 December 2012 after a long illness. A leading climber and alpinist from the Belluno area of Northern Italy, Gigi Dal Pozzo played a fundamental role in the evolution of climbing in...
Pillar del Sol Naciente, new route on Cerro Murallón in Patagonia
13/12/2012 - Alpinism
Pillar del Sol Naciente, new route on Cerro Murallón in Patagonia
On Cerro Murallón in Patagonia Lise Billon, Pedro Diaz, François Poncet, Jeremy Stagnetto, Jerome Sullivan have made the first ascent of Sol Naciente (1000m, 7b A1 WI6 M6).
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
21/11/2012 - Alpinism
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by...
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
12/11/2012 - Climbing
Sardinia, 4 new rocks climbs on Monte Oddeu
Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a...
Grotta del Ferro, new route by Simone Pedeferri in Val di Mello
26/10/2012 - Climbing
Grotta del Ferro, new route by Simone Pedeferri in Val di Mello
Simone Pedeferri has freed Dream of love 8c at Grotta del Ferro, Val di Mello, Italy.
New Dolomite rock climbs on Cason de Formin
19/10/2012 - Climbing
New Dolomite rock climbs on Cason de Formin
Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).
Trango Tower, the Eternal Flame video trailer climbed by Lama, Ortner and Rich
03/10/2012 - Alpinism
Trango Tower, the Eternal Flame video trailer climbed by Lama, Ortner and Rich
The video of the Trango Towers and the ascent carried out by David Lama, Peter Ortner and Corey Rich of the route Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower (6251m), Trango Towers, Karakorum.
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2012: a huge success
02/10/2012 - Climbing
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2012: a huge success
Sun, sea, great climbing and partying. These are the ingredients of the first The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival which took place on the Greek island from 26 - 30 September 2012.
Vivid Landscapes, the video of Melissa Le Neve bouldering at Rocklands
02/10/2012 - Climbing
Vivid Landscapes, the video of Melissa Le Neve bouldering at Rocklands
The video by Haroun Souirji about Melissa Le Neve's climbing trip to South Africa's Rocklands last June.
Neil Gresham and his Olympiad climb
21/09/2012 - Interviews
Neil Gresham and his Olympiad climb
Interview with British climber Neil Gresham after his first ascent of the Deep Water Solo Olympiad 8b at Pembroke, Wales.
Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
14/09/2012 - Alpinism
Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
This August the Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik forged a new line up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (6286m), Karakorum. Their "Out of Reality" ends on the shoulder circa 400m below the summit.