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Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
05/11/2021 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
The report by Jacopo Lacher who, at the end of October in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, freed the trad climbs ‘Blood Diamond’ at the crag Diamante and an old project of Adriano Trombetta at the base of Sergent, now called Shikantaza (aka. ‘Il progetto Tromba’).
Barbara Zangerl and the invisible bond of a climbing partnership
05/11/2021 - Interviews
Barbara Zangerl and the invisible bond of a climbing partnership
One of the great all-round climbers of our time, 33-year-old Austrian Barbara Zangerl, talks about the bond that is created when climbing. Check out the third article of our series created with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of the 'Learn to Climb with Vibram' project.
Tsoboje Northwest Face in Nepal climbed by Nejc Marčič, Luka Stražar
04/11/2021 - Alpinism
Tsoboje Northwest Face in Nepal climbed by Nejc Marčič, Luka Stražar
Climbing alpine style from 28 - 30 October 2021, Slovenian alpinists Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar established a new route up the NW Face of Tsoboje (Chobutse) above the Rolwaling Valley in Nepal.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo chills out on Cafe Solo 9b at Margalef
03/11/2021 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo chills out on Cafe Solo 9b at Margalef
Spanish rock climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has made the first ascent of Cafe Solo, a 9b sport climb at Margalef.
Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure’s first ascent at Raven Tor
02/11/2021 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Mutation, 23 years after Steve McClure’s first ascent at Raven Tor
On 31 October 2021 Scottish climber William Bosi made the long-awaited second ascent of Mutation at Raven Tor. First ascended by Steve McClure in 1998 and originally graded 9a, Bosi has now suggested an upgrade to 9a+.
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
On the Casetti wall in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Il Pirata (8a max, 160m), a new multipitch dedicated to legendary Italian cyclist Marco Pantani.
New ice climbs in Lapland, Sweden
26/10/2021 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Lapland, Sweden
Rafa Vadillo from Catalonia, Spain, reports about new ice climbs established in Swedish Lapland, in particular in the Stora Sjöfallet National Park and the Sarek National Park.
Anna Hazelnutt repeats E9 at Dyer's Lookout, UK
25/10/2021 - Climbing
Anna Hazelnutt repeats E9 at Dyer's Lookout, UK
American climber Anna Hazlett has made a daring repeat of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest, a bold E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, England. Tom Randall, who held her ropes, repeated the route immediately beforehand.
Magnus Midtbø first climber to reach 1 million subscribers on Youtube
22/10/2021 - Climbing
Magnus Midtbø first climber to reach 1 million subscribers on Youtube
Norwegian rock climber Magnus Midtbø has reached 1 million subscribers on his Youtube channel. His is the first climbing channel to reach this benchmark number.
Jakob Schubert climbs Es Pontas psicobloc on Mallorca
21/10/2021 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert climbs Es Pontas psicobloc on Mallorca
On the island of Mallorca Jakob Schubert has repeated the famous deep water solo Es Pontas, put up by Chris Sharma in 2006.
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
18/10/2021 - Alpinism
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher and Michele Cagol have made the first ascent of Bepino, a new multi-pitch rock climb on the west face of Cima Uomo (2543m) in the Brenta Dolomites to remember their father-in-law Giuseppe Deavi. The route was subsequently freed by Bepino's nephew and Rolando's son, Alessandro Larcher. The three...
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
15/10/2021 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
30-year-old Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Alasha, the extremely difficult Deep Water Solo on the island of Mallorca. First ascended by Chris Sharma in 2016, the Austrian climber feels the psicobloc warrants 9a.
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
13/10/2021 - Alpinism
James Price summits unclimbed Passu Sar North in Pakistan's Karakoram
This summer James Price made a first ascent of Passu Sar North (6884m) and opened new routes on Passu Diar (7295m) and Maidon Sar (6090m), also referred to as Darmyani Peak, by climbing the mountain's south ridge.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.

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