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Alexander Megos on belaying Margo Hayes up Biographie at Céüse
28/09/2017 - Interviews
Alexander Megos on belaying Margo Hayes up Biographie at Céüse
A semi-serious interview with Germany’s ace climber Alexander Megos who belayed Margo Hayes during her historic first female ascent of Biographie at Céüse in France.
Silvestro Franchini climbs difficult new crack in Val Genova
27/09/2017 - Climbing
Silvestro Franchini climbs difficult new crack in Val Genova
Italian mountain guide Silvestro Franchini (30) reports about the first ascent of 'Fessura del Caret', a difficult new crack climb in Val di Genova within the Adamello - Brenta Natural Park.
Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse
25/09/2017 - Climbing
Margo Hayes first female ascent of Biographie 9a+ at Céüse
Sport climbing: on 24 September 2017 Margo Hayes repeated Biographie 9a+ at Ceuse in France. In doing so the American has made the first female ascent of this mega climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Adam Ondra, new climbing projects after Silence at Flatanger
19/09/2017 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, new climbing projects after Silence at Flatanger
After having freed the world’s first 9c, Adam Ondra has discovered two new projects at Flatanger in Norway which could be as difficult as 9b+.
Kalymnos, 20 years of rock climbing in Greece
18/09/2017 - Climbing
Kalymnos, 20 years of rock climbing in Greece
The small island of Kalymnos in Greece, without a doubt one world's premier sport climbing destinations, celebrates 20 years of rock climbing holidays.
Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın
17/09/2017 - Alpinism
Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın
Zorbey Aktuyun reports about the first repeat of Nessuno (8a+, 470 m) carried out with Muammer Yalcın in the Aladaglar massif in Turkey.
Bugaboos Spire, big new rock climb up Canadian North Face
16/09/2017 - Alpinism
Bugaboos Spire, big new rock climb up Canadian North Face
Vlad Capusan reports about Tutti Frutti Summer Love (5.11+, A3, 17 pitches, 610m), the big new route climbed up the North Face of Bugaboos Spire in British Columbia, Canada together with Tom Schindfessel from 8 - 11 August 2017.
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
15/09/2017 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander frees Kampfzone, a rare climbing gem in the Rätikon
Interview with Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander after the first free ascent of his alpine sports climb Kampfzone (8c) in the Rätikon massif.
Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy
12/09/2017 - Climbing
Larcher and Marazzi free Così parlò Zarathustra in Vallone di Sea, Italy
On 28 July 2017 Jacopo Larcher and Paolo Marazzi made the first free ascent of Così parlò Zarathustra, a A3 aid climb in Vallone di Sea established in 1983 by Isidoro Meneghin and Daniele Caneparo.
Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska
09/09/2017 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal climbs new route up Xanadu West face in Alaska
From 5 to 21 July 2017 Catalan alpinist Sílvia Vidal made the solo first ascent of 'Un pas més' (A4 / A4+, 6a, 530 m) up the West Face of Xanadu (Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska).
Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco
07/09/2017 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni repeats 29dots, grand highball boulder problem in Valle dell'Orco
Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moroni who on 02/09/2017 in Val Noasca (Valle dell’Orco, Italy) pulled off the first repeat of 29 dots, the difficult highball boulder problem freed in 2015 by Austria’s Bernd Zangerl.
Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites
03/09/2017 - Alpinism
Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites
The report by Lisi Steurer who teamed up with Hannes Pfeifhofer to make the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (400m, 8a), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Taè (Spalti di Col Becchei), Dolomites.
Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber
31/08/2017 - Alpinism
Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber
In July the Swiss alpinists Thomas Senf and Martin Reber made the first ascent of Freudenschreck (6a+, 485 m), a new rock climbing up the SW ridge of Schreckhorn (4078 m), Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
New Tsaranoro climb in Madagascar by Italian Ragni di Lecco
25/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Tsaranoro climb in Madagascar by Italian Ragni di Lecco
In July 2017 the Italian climbers Matteo de Zaiacomo, Dimitri Anghileri and Marco Maggioni belonging to the Ragni di lecco climbing club made the first ascent of Rivotra Mahery (strong wind) a new 700 meter rock climb with difficulties up to 8a+ on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
22/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
Between 2016 and 2017 a series of new rock climbs were first ascended on the Lofoten Islands, Norway, by the Spanish climbers Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Pau Gómez, Jordi Esteve and Felix Queipo established up peaks Marklitinden, Storskiva, Merraflestinden and Moltbaertinden.
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
21/08/2017 - Alpinism
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
Giovanni Giarletta reports about the first ascent of Via Napoleone, a new climb in remote Val Torrone high above Val Masino, initiated by Manuele Panzeri and Pietro Tentori about nine years ago and completed this August.

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