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Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
20/07/2010 - Alpinism
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
19/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...
El Capitan triple linkup by Alex Honnold and Sean Leary
06/07/2010 - Climbing
El Capitan triple linkup by Alex Honnold and Sean Leary
Alex Honnold and Sean Leary have climbed three routes on El Capitan in Yosemite, The Nose, Salathé Wall and Lurking Fear in 24 hours.
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
02/07/2010 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer repeats Pan Aroma
On 30/06/2010 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer carried out the first repeat of Pan Aroma 8c, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
17/05/2010 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
On 17 May Edurne Pasaban from Spain reached the summit of Shisha Pangma, completing her tour of the 14 highest mountains in the world. She summited along with Italian Mario Panzeri (11th 8000er).
Melloblocco 2010
12/05/2010 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2010
Melloblocco 2010 turned out to be a success once again. Despite the bad weather 1900 registered climbers took part in the world's largest bouldering meeting in Val di Mello, Italy from 6 - 9 May 2010. The valley was visited by a circa 3500 boulderers, as can be read in...
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
30/04/2010 - Book-press
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
Wolverine Publishing is due to launch the first comprehensive iPhone app for Red River Gorge in Kentucky, USA. Planetmountain took a brief look at this new digital content.
Miss Oh Eun-Sun crowns all 8000ers, but one alpinist still in difficulty on Annapurna.
28/04/2010 - Alpinism
Miss Oh Eun-Sun crowns all 8000ers, but one alpinist still in difficulty on Annapurna.
On 27/04/2010 the South Korean alpinist Miss Oh Eun-Sun reached the summit of Annapurna and, in doing so, has become the first woman in the world to climb all fourteen 8000ers. In the meantime though an alpinist is in trouble on the 10th highest mountain in the world...
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
21/04/2010 - Alpinism
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
19/04/2010 - Alpinism
Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
On 17 April Edurne Pasaban from Spain's Basque country reached the summit of Annapurna, her 13th 8000m peak, while Joao Garcia from Portugal completed the collection of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Asier Izaguirre, Alex Chicón, Nacho Orviz and the Sherpa Mingma, Pasang and Gempu from the Pasaban...
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
01/04/2010 - Environment
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
Reducing the traffic in the Dolomites, an initiative promoted by the Governor the the Trentino region, the SAT, the CAI (Italian Mountaineering Club), the Bolzano Mountaineering Club and also Reinhold Messner.
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
30/03/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
26/03/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
08/03/2010 - Competitions
Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was won by the Weger and Gross. The extenuating and freezing...

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