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Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
30/04/2010 - Book-press
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
Wolverine Publishing is due to launch the first comprehensive iPhone app for Red River Gorge in Kentucky, USA. Planetmountain took a brief look at this new digital content.
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
14/04/2010 - Climbing
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
Angelika Rainer and her repeat of Outsider at Cornalba.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
01/04/2010 - Environment
Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
Reducing the traffic in the Dolomites, an initiative promoted by the Governor the the Trentino region, the SAT, the CAI (Italian Mountaineering Club), the Bolzano Mountaineering Club and also Reinhold Messner.
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
18/03/2010 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo repeats Drumtime at Fonzaso
On 07/03/2009 Silvio Reffo from Vicenza carried out a rare repeat of Drumtime, the super route at Fonzaso.
Giovanni Cantamessa, goodbye from the climbing world
10/03/2010 - Competitions
Giovanni Cantamessa, goodbye from the climbing world
After a long ordeal Giovanna Cantamessa died on 9 March 2010. Born in Turin and brought up in Bologna, the 55 year old had been coach and irreplaceable body and soul of the Italian Sport Climbing Federation since 2002.
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
09/03/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
German climber Ines Papert provides her report and views of British winter climbing after her first ice climbing trip to Scotland.
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
03/03/2010 - Climbing
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
26/02/2010 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
Dave MacLeod has carried out the first winter ascent of Anubis, at E8 6c one of the hardest summer routes on Ben Nevis which was, unsurprisingly, first ascended in 2005 by Macleod himself.
Iker Pou climbing interview
26/02/2010 - Interviews
Iker Pou climbing interview
Iker Pou from Spain is one of the world's most talented rock climbers, with cutting-edge climbs spanning from 9a+ at the crag to 8a at 6000 meters. In this interview he shares his climbing thoughts after his repeat of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef.
When icefalls crack
25/02/2010 - Alpinism
When icefalls crack
The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
First ascents in the Antarctica Queen Maud Land
A three man Austrian expedition to Queen Maud Land in the Antarctica at the end of 2009 resulted in eleven first ascents.
Reinhold Messner interview
27/01/2010 - Interviews
Reinhold Messner interview
Reinhold Messner, his life and alpinism beyond the 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.

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