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Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
31/07/2020 - Interviews
Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview
Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+...
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, the film by Manrico dell'Agnola now online
06/04/2020 - Alpinism
Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, the film by Manrico dell'Agnola now online
Donnafugata is a huge multi-pitch rock climb established in 2004 by Christoph Hainz with Roger Schäli on the south face of the Torre Trieste. 750 meters of demanding and beautiful climbing up one of the symbols of legendary Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites. Manrico dell'Agnola recounts its story in a...
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
19/02/2020 - Alpinism
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
On Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia Belgian climbers Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll have made the first ascent the mixed climb El Flechazo (850m, 7b, M3, WI5+).
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Marek Raganowicz on El Capitan solo climbs Born Under a Bad Sign
08/11/2019 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz on El Capitan solo climbs Born Under a Bad Sign
Polish / British alpinist Marek Raganowicz reports about his 13 day solo ascent of Born Under a Bad Sign, a difficult and dangerous aid climb up El Capitan in Yosemite first ascended in 1979 by Bill Price and Tim Washick.
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
03/09/2019 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
Vlad Capusan remembers his friend and climbing partner Zsolt Török, one of Romania’s foremost mountaineers who lost his life in a climbing accident on 14 August 2019 in the Făgăraș mountains.
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret king and queen of Munich
20/05/2019 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret king and queen of Munich
The fifth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2019 was won yesterday by Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret in Munich, Germany. Fanny Gibert and Adam Ondra took silver, Mia Krampl and Jan Hojer bronze.
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
15/11/2018 - Alpinism
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in the Karnali district of NW Nepal.
Janja Garnbret and Kai Harada Boulder World Champions
16/09/2018 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret and Kai Harada Boulder World Champions
On Friday night at Innsbruck in Austria Janja Garnbret from Slovenia was crowned Boulder World Champion. Akiyo Noguchi from Japan took silver, Staša Gejo from Serbia bronze. The men's competition was won on Saturday night by Japan's Kai Harada, ahead of Jongwon Chon from South Kore and Gregor Vezonik from...
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.
Tom Frost, farewell to Yosemite Golden Age climbing legend
25/08/2018 - Climbing
Tom Frost, farewell to Yosemite Golden Age climbing legend
On 24 August 2018 American climber Tom Frost died aged 81. Frost was one of the pioneering climbers and photographers during the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing.
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
31/07/2018 - Alpinism
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I
Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped for over 6 days on Latok I, has been rescued by the Pakistani military helicopters.