66 News found

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

The Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar have made the first ascent of Blue Racer (80°, M4, 1100m), a new route up the virgin West Face of Janak (Himalaya).

Mayan Smith-Gobat, together with David Falt, has made the third free ascent of Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites. 750m, 8a in a ground-up, in a 32 hour single push with no bivy gear. Falt provides the report.

On 17/06/2012 Luka Lindic and Andrej Grmovšek completed the first ascent of Rajceva (8a, 250m) up the North Face of Križevnik in Slovenia.

In the Bavella mountain range in Corsica Matteo della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Sintomi strani and have repeated De Rerum Natura, established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia.

In December 2011 and January 2012 Slovenian climbers Luka Krajnc and Matic Obid repeated a number of routes on Acopan Tepui and established their Miss Acopan (7b, 250m).

In summer 2011 Gerhard Schaar and Ines Peschel visited the Miyar Valley (India) where they established a series of new routes.

Slovenian climber Luka Krajnc has carried out the fourth complete free ascent of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites, first ascended by Alexander Huber solo during winter 1999 with difficulties up to A4 and then freed by German at 8c in July 2001. Urban Golob provides the report.

At the end of July Slovene climbers Ales Holc, Peter Juvan and Igor Kremser made the first ascent of on Xuelian North-East (6249m), in the Xuelian Feng range, Tien Shan, China via their route Arête of Trust (ED2, AI5, M5+).

Urban Golob reports about the winter ascents in Slovenia by climbers such as Andrej Grmovsek, Luka Krajnc, Dejan Koren, Aljaz Anderle, Marko Prezelj and many more.

Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).

On 22 December 2010 the Slovenian alpinists Francek Knez and Silvo Karo were awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia's President Dr. Danilo Tuerk. This high state decoration was confirmed on the pair for "their achievements in Slovenian mountain climbing and for their contributions to the reputation of Slovenian mountaineering...

In July Slovenian climbers Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out the first free ascent of the route Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.

The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...

Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.