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Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
On the Casetti wall in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Il Pirata (8a max, 160m), a new multipitch dedicated to legendary Italian cyclist Marco Pantani.
Anna Hazelnutt repeats E9 at Dyer's Lookout, UK
25/10/2021 - Climbing
Anna Hazelnutt repeats E9 at Dyer's Lookout, UK
American climber Anna Hazlett has made a daring repeat of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest, a bold E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, England. Tom Randall, who held her ropes, repeated the route immediately beforehand.
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
21/10/2021 - Climbing
William Bosi blasts boulders in Switzerland
Scottish climber Will Bosi has made a short but successful climbing trip to Switzerland, during which he repeated a flurry of hard boulder problems including the 8C Foundation’s Edge.
New variation added to Cima Gianni Costantini, Moiazza, Dolomites
20/10/2021 - Alpinism
New variation added to Cima Gianni Costantini, Moiazza, Dolomites
In August the Slovenian alpinists Andrej Grmovšek, Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindič teamed up with local Italian climber Alessandro Baù to add a new variation to the west face of Cima Gianni Costantini in the Moiazza group of the Dolomites.
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
15/10/2021 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Alasha, Chris Sharma's extreme Mallorca DWS
30-year-old Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Alasha, the extremely difficult Deep Water Solo on the island of Mallorca. First ascended by Chris Sharma in 2016, the Austrian climber feels the psicobloc warrants 9a.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
05/10/2021 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
Robbie Phillips has established 'What we do in the shadows’, a new E10 7a which adds a direct finish to Nosferatu at Duntelchaig in Scotland. Shortly after the first ascent Dave MacLeod completed the second ascent.
Stellar Laura Rogora makes first repeat of 9b/+ Erebor at Arco in Italy
03/10/2021 - Climbing
Stellar Laura Rogora makes first repeat of 9b/+ Erebor at Arco in Italy
Laura Rogora has made the first repeat of Erebor at the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+ and established by Stefano Ghisolfi in January 2021, it is considered the most difficult sport climb in Italy. This is the first time a woman has climbed a route...
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
01/10/2021 - Alpinism
Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev
Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
28/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one mountain to the next by bike. The two mountaineers required...
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
27/09/2021 - Alpinism
Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition
A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi 6,833m.
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
24/09/2021 - Alpinism
Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project
With their ascent of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed five of the six great north faces of the Alps. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn and Petit Dru, now the only peak missing off their list is...
Seo Chaehyun and Jakob Schubert crowned Lead World Champions 2021
22/09/2021 - Competitions
Seo Chaehyun and Jakob Schubert crowned Lead World Champions 2021
Last night at Moscow, Russia, during the Climbing World Championships Seo Chaehyun from South Korea and Jakob Schubert from Austria won the 2021 Lead World Championships. Natalia Grossman and Luka Potocar took home the silver medal, Laura Rogora and Hamish McArthur the bronze.
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project
22/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project
After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile and the Eiger, alpinists Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed the Matterhorn via the Schmid route. To complete their North6 project, only two famous north faces of the Alps are still missing off the list: Grandes Jorasses and Petit Dru.
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
21/09/2021 - Alpinism
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
The second report by Nicolas Favresse who in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord in Greenland has established another 5 new big walls with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta.

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