Home page Planetmountain.com
Pepo Jurado and Sebastian Pelletti making the first ascent of Cuarzo Menguante on the East Face of La Hoja, Torres del Paine, Patagonia (27-28/01/2022)
Photo by Sebastian Pelletti / Pepo Jurado
Pepo Jurado and Sebastian Pelletti making the first ascent of Cuarzo Menguante on the East Face of La Hoja, Torres del Paine, Patagonia (27-28/01/2022)
Photo by Sebastian Pelletti / Pepo Jurado
Pepo Jurado and Sebastian Pelletti making the first ascent of Cuarzo Menguante on the East Face of La Hoja, Torres del Paine, Patagonia (27-28/01/2022)
Photo by Sebastian Pelletti / Pepo Jurado
Cuarzo Menguante on the East Face of La Hoja, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, first ascended by Pepo Jurado and Sebastian Pelletti
Photo by Sebastian Pelletti / Pepo Jurado

Torres del Paine in Patagonia, big new route climbed on La Hoja by Pepo Jurado, Sebastian Pelletti

by

On 27-28 January 2022 Pepo Jurado, Sebastian Pelletti made the first ascent of Cuarzo Menguante on the East Face of La Hoja in the Bader Valley in the Torres del Paine, Patagonia

Hot on the heels of their successful first ascent of Cuerno Este in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia with Romano Marcotti, Pepo Jurado and Sebastian Pelletti have now completed an interesting new line up the East Face of La Hoja, or The Blade in English, above the Bader Valley, formerly referred to as Pingo Valley.

As reported, Cuerno Este was initially only backup plan as the original objective -La Hoja - had been wet but when this dried out Jurado and Pelletti made their way up into the valley. On 27 January they started up the first pitch of Anduril, before deviating right and following an obvious system of cracks. The pair made good progress despite the sustained nature of the climbing, but nevertheless they were forced to bivy about 5 pitches from the ridge. The next day the reached the ridge and followed this to summit at about 13, before descending down Anduril.

Writing to planetmountain.com directly from Chile, Pelletti explained "The ascent was incredible, nails climbing and a lot of route finding was necessary to put the line together. At one point I aided up a small seam as the crack system sealed up. From a small ledge here we made a tension traverse right into another system which we continued upwards. Night fell a few pitches short of the ridge, and we laid out our ropes to sit on, shivering through the night watching an eternal sunrise before starting up again and reaching the ridge at midday the next day. At the ridge we were forced to traverse around the west face to reach more accessible terrain to the summit. From here we rapped straight down the American line, replacing their anchors."

The 700m line checks in at 5.11+ A2. As to the name, Pelletti explained "Pepo named the route Cuarzo Menguante, as the "menguante" or waning moon accompanied us on our tiny quartz laden bivy ledge as we waited for the sunrise." Success follows a previous attempt by Pelletti and Alex Alborñoz via a different line circa three years ago.

Cuarzo Menguante is only the third route on the mountain's east face. Bohemian Rhapsody was established in 1996 by a Chilean team comprised of Christian Oberli and Sven Bruchfeld, while a month later the Americans Scott Lazar, Micheal Pennings and Cameron Tague made the first ascent of Anduril slightly further to the right.

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Cuerno Este of Cuernos del Paine in Patagonia climbed by Jurado, Marcotti, Pelletti
03.02.2022
Cuerno Este of Cuernos del Paine in Patagonia climbed by Jurado, Marcotti, Pelletti
An international team comprised of Pepo Jurado from Ecuador, Romano Marcotti from Chile and Sebastian Pelletti from Australia have made the first ascent of Cuerno Este, one the striking Cuernos del Paine peaks in the Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile.
Free South Africa on Paine Towers in Patagonia, the Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto ascent video
10.08.2019
Free South Africa on Paine Towers in Patagonia, the Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto ascent video
The video of the first free ascent of the South African route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia, carried out in 2009 by Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto.
 Cerro Almirante Nieto, new route in Torres del Paine park, Patagonia
19.08.2018
Cerro Almirante Nieto, new route in Torres del Paine park, Patagonia
Felipe Bishara and Christian Barra Muñoz have established a new route up the hitherto unclimbed SE Face of Cerro Almirante Nieto, Torries del Paine, Patagonia.
Torres del Paine, interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent of El Regalo de Mwono in Patagonia
10.03.2017
Torres del Paine, interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent of El Regalo de Mwono in Patagonia
Interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent, carried out with fellow-Belgians Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee, of the big wall rock climb El Regalo de Mwono (1200m, 8a) located on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
Paine Towers, Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee free another big climb in Patagonia
23.02.2017
Paine Towers, Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee free another big climb in Patagonia
After spending 19 days climbing the East Face of Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee completed the first free ascent of 'El Regalo de Mwono'. This 1200m big wall rock climb was established between 1991/1992 by Paul Pritchard, Simon Yates, Sean Smith and Noel Craine with difficulties up to 5b, VI, 5.10, A4.
Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
21.02.2017
Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington have abandoned their attempt at make the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, the famous big wall up the Central Paine Tower in Patagonia, due to terrible weather.
Riders on the Storm Torres del Paine, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ines Papert in Patagonia videos
25.04.2016
Riders on the Storm Torres del Paine, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ines Papert in Patagonia videos
Four videos documenting the repeat of Riders on the Storm on the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in Patagonia, carried out by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and accompanied by Thomas Senf.
Torres del Paine National Park, first repeat photographs of Patagonia's glaciers
09.03.2016
Torres del Paine National Park, first repeat photographs of Patagonia's glaciers
Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura is currently in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, Patagonia. The expedition he is leading plans to photograph the exact same locations as those taken by Alberto Maria De Agostini as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" in order to document the effects of over 100 years of climate change.
Torres del Paine South Tower: Wall of Paine
20.11.2013
Torres del Paine South Tower: Wall of Paine
Mike Turner, Jerry Gore, Calum Muskett and Raphael Jochaud have made the first ascent of Wall of Paine up the SE Face of South Tower of Torres del Paine, Patagonia. The four were stopped 100m below the summit due to bad weather.
Villanueva, Didier and Hanssens free climbs in Patagonia's Torres del Paine
15.03.2013
Villanueva, Didier and Hanssens free climbs in Patagonia's Torres del Paine
In Patagonia the Belgian alpinists Stephane Hanssens, Merlin Didier and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll made the first free ascents of the East Face of Cerro Catedral (1000 m, 7c+) and the East Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (500m, 7c+) while on Fitz Roy they climbed 900m of virgin ground up the NW Face. An "absolutely amazing adventure" as Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll recounts.
Torres del Paine, new Slovenian North Tower climb
01.02.2013
Torres del Paine, new Slovenian North Tower climb
On 01/01/2013 the Slovenian alpinists Andrej Grmovšek and Luka Krajnc made the first ascent of Zuko traverse (V 5.10+, 650m).
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by  Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
03.02.2010
Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new route to Torres del Paine, Patagonia
28.01.2010
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new route to Torres del Paine, Patagonia
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have recently returned from their trip to Patagonia where despite terrible weather conditions they managed to forge "Waiting for Godot" (750m, 7b) along the East Face of Central Tower to the Col which separates the Central and North Tower.
Paine South African Route, interview with Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
13.02.2009
Paine South African Route, interview with Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
Interview with Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto after their first free ascent of the South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
10.02.2009
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
After 11 days on the wall Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva amd Ben Ditto have carried out the first free ascent of the South African route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
Central Tower of Paine new Italian route in Patagonia
15.02.2008
Central Tower of Paine new Italian route in Patagonia
On 07/02/2008 Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni and Elio Orlandi reached the summit of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia, via their new route called 'El Gordo, El Flaco y l'Abuelito' (1250m 7a+, A3+).
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
21.02.2007
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
From 21 - 26 January 2007 the Italians Elio Orlandi, Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni and Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of "Osa ma non troppo", a 700m line up the E Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (Torres del Paine, Patagonia). A beautiful route, great company and a fantastic adventure lived to the beat of the over 40’s hardmen.
Trekking in Patagonia
18.07.2000
Trekking in Patagonia
Trekking in a magical and mysterious land: three magnificent walks around the Torres del Paine, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, the stone heart of Patagonia.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer