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Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
13/12/2006 - Alpinism
Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
Andrej Magajne from Slovenia reports of his August 2006 and 2005 expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, which resulted in four new routes in the Karakol valley in the Terskey Ala Too range.
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face of the Triangolo nero on Monte Emilius, the prime mountain...
Barbara Raudner climbs Keitos Palast 8c
05/10/2006 - Climbing
Barbara Raudner climbs Keitos Palast 8c
Barbara Raudner from Austria climbs "Keitos Palast" at Austria's Höllental (Atlantis) and in doing so joins the fast-growing international list of female climbers capable of climbing 8c
Luca Maspes & Co summer 2006 climbing exploration
04/10/2006 - Alpinism
Luca Maspes & Co summer 2006 climbing exploration
Luca Maspes & Co climb 11 new routes in Valtellina during summer 2006.
Arco Rock Legends: Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter at the top
01/09/2006 - Events
Arco Rock Legends: Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter at the top
The first edition of the Arco Rock Legends held in Arco (Trentino, N. Italy) went to Josune Bereziartu from Spain (Salewa Rock Award) and Angela Eiter from Austria (La Sportiva Competition Award).
Uli Biaho new route by Kopold and Cmarik
03/08/2006 - Alpinism
Uli Biaho new route by Kopold and Cmarik
Dodo Kopold and Gabo Cmarik have made the f.a. of the NW Face of Uli Biaho 6417m, Karakorum, Pakistan. They also climbed a route up Hainabrakk East Tower (5800m) to 5375m.
The crystal cave: searching for the Naica treasure
30/05/2006 - Environment
The crystal cave: searching for the Naica treasure
In January 2006 Speleoresearch & Films and the Team la Venta started a three year exploration campain to discover the Naica cave, Chihuahua, Messico.
Dave MacLeod frees Rhapsody E11 7a at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland
12/04/2006 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod frees Rhapsody E11 7a at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland
Scottish Dave MacLeod has climbed the direct finish to Requiem at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland, calling the climb Rhapsody and grading the route E11 7a. This makes it a strong contender for one of the hardest trad pitches in the world.
Brunod and Reichegger win 12th Tour du Rutor
10/04/2006 - Competitions
Brunod and Reichegger win 12th Tour du Rutor
The 12th international Tour du Rutor took place at Arvier in Valle d'Aosta last weekend and was won by the Italian team Dennis Brunod and Manfred Reichegger. The women's event was won the Italian/Swiss team comprise of Gloriana Pellissier and Gabrielle Magnenat.
Prezelj's Patagonian ascents with Koch and Potter
17/03/2006 - Alpinism
Prezelj's Patagonian ascents with Koch and Potter
Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj has returned from a five week trip to Patagonia where, dodging typical unstable weather, he made two fast ascents together with the Americans Stephen Koch and Dean Potter, one on Cerro Torre and one on Torre Standhardt.
XV Piolet d'or to Steve House and Vincent Anderson
13/02/2006 - Alpinism
XV Piolet d'or to Steve House and Vincent Anderson
On 10/02 in Grenoble the golden ice axe, the mountaineering oscar 2005, was awarded to Steve House and Vincent Anderson for their new route up the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat.
Ueli Steck - Khumbu Express - Piolet d'Or 2005
10/02/2006 - Interviews
Ueli Steck - Khumbu Express - Piolet d'Or 2005
Interview with Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck, nominated for Piolet d'or 2005 for his solo ascents of Cholatse (6440m), Tawoche (6505m) and Ama Dablam (up to 5900m).
Leichtfried blazes Illuminati M11+/WI 6+
07/02/2006 - Alpinism
Leichtfried blazes Illuminati M11+/WI 6+
On 24 January Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena (South Tyrol) N. Italy . The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.
Bain de sang, 9a, for Scarian e Manolo
06/02/2006 - Climbing
Bain de sang, 9a, for Scarian e Manolo
On 3/02/2006 Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla and Riccardo "Sky" Scarian repeated Bain de Sang, 9a first ascended by Fred Nicole at Saint Loup, Switzerland.
East-west traverse Hielo Patagonico Sur
East-west traverse Hielo Patagonico Sur
Marcello Cominetti, Thomas Reilly, Alistair Crafword, Andrew Denton, Simon Shercliff, Tania Cotton, Andy Lewitt, Kewin Mulligan, Filippo Beccari have carried out the 1st complete east-west traverse of the Hielo Patagonico Sur, Patagonia.
18 killed by avalanche at Kang Guru (Annapurna)
24/10/2005 - Alpinism
18 killed by avalanche at Kang Guru (Annapurna)
The news was announced on Nepalese television yesterday: 7 French mountaineers/trekkers and 11 Nepalese Sherpa have been killed by an avalanche at Kang Guru Base Camp. Kang Guru lies in the Manang region, close to Annapurna, Nepal and is 6981m high.