46 News found

04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.

01/08/2016 - Alpinism
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites In the Brenta Dolomites Andrea Simonini and Gianluca Beliamoli have made the first ascent of 'Bastava un Piumino' (180m, 6c), a new multi-pitch climb on a tower they have named Pilastro Canino, next to Cima d'Agola in Val d'Ambiez. Simonini provides the report.

17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...

20/04/2016 - Climbing
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi Federica Mingolla reports of her 20/03/2016 ascent, together with Andrea Gaddi and Luca Schiera, of the classic multi-pitch rock climb Delta Minox up Pilastro del Scingino, Cavalcorto, Val Masino, Italy, established on 4 September 1988 by Tarcisio Fazzini, Livio Gianola, Sabina Gianola and Norberto Riva.

17/12/2015 - Climbing
Never the Same, first free ascent on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar by Polo, Gorobey and Giuliberti Andrea Polo, Gabriele Gorobey and Carlo Giuliberti retrace this September’s first free ascent of Never the Same up Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar. The three were accompanied by Marco Sterni who, in 1998, had made the first ascent of this multi-pitch rock climb together with Rolando Larcher and Erik Svab.

11/09/2015 - Climbing
Manolo: Weg durch den Fisch, climbing the Marmolada Fish route thirty years later After 30 years Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla returns to climb Via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route on the Marmolada South Face in the Dolomites… and experience those (ghastly and unrepeatable) moments, those distant memories that resurface in an unexpected perspective.

20/01/2015 - Alpinism
Effimera, Matteo Bernasconi's Pizzo Badile dream The short film directed by Riky Felderer about Matteo Bernasconi and his desire to make the first ascent of a new mixed route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

19/12/2014 - Climbing
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview Interview with Philippe Brass, mountain guide and expert new routes, about crag certification and classification, the responsibilities new bolters have the the training they receive. By Maurizio Oviglia

20/11/2014 - Interviews
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moronim from his first competitions to when he won bronze in the 2004 European Bouldering Championship in 2004, via his bouldering and sport climbing which recently netted him the redpoint of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba, Italy.

25/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda The report by Alessandro Beber and Alessandro Baù about two new rock climbs on Punta Jolanda: Prua degli Onironauti (250m, VII) and Badanti al seguito (220m, VIII), established on 04/08/2014 together with Matteo Baù, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti and Claudia Mario. The second report of the Brenta Base Camp, the...

19/06/2014 - Climbing
Mai più colla 8c by Mauro Dell'Antonia at Rocca Pendice On 1 June, Mauro Dell'Antonia, the talented climber from Venice, Italy, climbed 'Mai più colla' at Punta della Croce, Rocca Pendice (Euganean Hills, Padua, Italy) for the first time without the hold that snapped off a few years ago. The proposed grade is 8c. This brief and intense series of...

24/02/2014 - Interviews
Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold: the great Fitz Roy traverse interview Interview with Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold who from 12 - 16 February 2014 carried out the coveted first traverse of the major ridge line of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

21/11/2013 - Alpinism
Stéphane Benoist: the south face of Annapurna and the importance of a climbing partnership Interview with French alpinist Stéphane Benoist after the recent, epic ascent of the South Face of Annapurna carried out together with Yannick Graziani.

08/11/2013 - Alpinism
Tranga Tower, Ala Daglar: two new rock climbs in Turkey In August Carlo Cosi, Enrico Geremia, Nicolò Geremia and Andrea Simonini climbed two new routes up the impressive West Face of Lower Guvercinlik (3000m), Aladaglar: Atomic Folder (600m, 7b+/c (1pA1), 7b obl, RS3) and Mostro Turco (650m, 8a (2pA1), 7b+obl, S3+).

25/07/2013 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger adds a new climb to Loferer Alm On 13 July 2013, the Germans Roland Hemetzberger and Fabian Hagenauer made the first free ascent of Sodom und Gomorrah (170m, 8a+/8b) up Sonnwand, Loferer Alm, Austria.

22/07/2013 - Alpinism
Uli Biaho new Trango climb by the Ragni di Lecco Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach have safely reached Base Camp after having forged a new route up the West Face of Uli Biaho (6109m), Trango, Pakistan.
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