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Video: 'Dardara' first ascent on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Tasio Martin, Ibon Mendia
05/02/2025 - Alpinism
Video: 'Dardara' first ascent on Aguja Mermoz in patagonia by Tasio Martin, Ibon Mendia
The video of Basque mountaineers Tasio Martin and Ibon Mendia making the first ascent of 'Dardara' (500m, 7b+?) on Aguja Mermoz in patagonia.
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
28/01/2025 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association
German alpinist Robert Jasper has been awarded the 'Primus Inter Pares 2024' prize from the Polski Związek Alpinizmu, the Polish Alpine Club. This award recognises his extraordinary life's work and his pioneering first ascents in the field of alpinism
In Patagonia new climbs on Aguja Mermoz & Paine North Tower by Tasio Martin, Ibon Mendia
27/01/2025 - Climbing
In patagonia new climbs on Aguja Mermoz & Paine North Tower by Tasio Martin, Ibon Mendia
Basque mountaineers Tasio Martin and Ibon Mendia have established two new lines in patagonia this season: Erresistentziara Kondenatuak on Torre Norte del Paine and 'Dardara' on Aguja Mermoz. Martin reports.
New climb on Cima Busazza in Italy in honour of Tomas Franchini
23/01/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Cima Busazza in Italy in honour of Tomas Franchini
On the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group, Emanuele Andreozzi and Silvestro Franchini have made the first ascent of Tomas. The new mixed climb is dedicated to Silvestro's brother, Tomas Franchini, who perished last summer on Mount Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
'Eternal Flauta' added to El Mochito in Patagonia by Mati Korten, Ignacio Mulero
22/01/2025 - Climbing
'Eternal Flauta' added to El Mochito in patagonia by Mati Korten, Ignacio Mulero
In December 2024 Matías Korten and Ignacio Mulero established 'Eternal Flauta' (220m, 7a+) on the East face of El Mochito in the Cerro Torre group in patagonia. Mulero reports
New climb on Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia by Alessandro Baù, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso
14/01/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Aguja Val Biois in patagonia by Alessandro Baù, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso
On the east face of Aguja Val Biois in the Fitz Roy massif of patagonia the Italian climbers Alessandro Baù, Matteo Della Bordella and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of '¿Quién sigue?' (450m, 7a, A1).
'Alborada' established on La Mascara (Torres del Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
08/01/2025 - Alpinism
'Alborada' established on La Mascara (Torres del Paine, patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
On 28 and 29 December 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Alborada' (5.11+, 600m) on the west face of Cerro Mascara in the Torres del Paine massif in patagonia.
'Ultima Ronda' climbed on Cerro Trono Blanco (Torres del Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
18/12/2024 - Alpinism
'Ultima Ronda' climbed on Cerro Trono Blanco (Torres del Paine, patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
On 6 December 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Ultima Ronda' (AI3 M4, 700m) on the previously unclimbed south face of Cerro Trono Blanco in the Torres del Paine massif in patagonia.
Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
04/11/2024 - Alpinism
Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
Slovakian mountaineer Ondrej Huserka died last week while descending Langtang Lirung in Nepal, shortly after having made the first ascent of the huge East Face with Marek Holeček. Born in 1990, he was widely regarded as one of the leading young alpinists, not only from Slovakia.
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
25/09/2024 - Climbing
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of their friend and climbing partner Keita Kurakami.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Dani Arnold receives Paul Preuss Award 2024
13/09/2024 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold receives Paul Preuss Award 2024
Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold is the twelfth recipient of the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded each year in memory of the bold Austrian alpinist. Instated in 2013, past winners are Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander, Bernd Arnold, Heinz Mariacher, Catherine Destivelle, Thomas Huber and...
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...