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Corno Stella & Central Pillar of Freney: Aurélia Lanoë and Silvia Loreggian’s 'South 6' project gets off to a perfect start
15/08/2025 - Interviews
Corno Stella & Central Pillar of Freney: Aurélia Lanoë and Silvia Loreggian’s 'South 6' project gets off to a perfect start
On the 31st of July, Aurélia Lanoë and Silvia Loreggian set off from Ventimiglia in NW Italy on their 'South 6 project'. The idea is to cross the Alps by bike from the west to east and free climb six major south faces: Corno Stella, Mont Blanc, Wenden, Rätikon, Marmolada,...
First ascents of Kaikiawila, Ngoku and other new climbs in Angola
14/08/2025 - Climbing
First ascents of Kaikiawila, Ngoku and other new climbs in Angola
A team of seven Spanish comprising Miguel A. Díaz, Álvaro García, Indi Gutierrez, David Matos, Juanjo Medina, Manu Ponce and Gonzalo Torre has completed several first ascents on the imposing granite mountains of southern Cumbira II in Angola's Cuanza Sur province. Highlights include the first ascents of Mt. Kaikiawila and...
Voie Lafaille on Drus West face freed by Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo
13/08/2025 - Alpinism
Voie Lafaille on Drus West face freed by Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo
French alpinists Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have made the first free ascent of 'Voie Lafaille' on the West face the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was established solo by French ace Jean-Christophe Lafaille in winter 2001.
Civetta North-West, the new guidebook by Alessandro Baù & Luca Vallata
13/08/2025 - Book-press
Civetta North-West, the new guidebook by Alessandro Baù & Luca Vallata
The climbing guidebook 'Civetta North-West' by Alessandro Baù and Luca Vallata has recently been published by Idea Montagna. With kind permission from the authors, we're publishing the introduction to the 'Wall of Walls' of the Dolomites, along with the route description and topo of the classic 'Solleder-Lettenbauer’, first ascended by Gustav Lettenbauer and Emil Solleder...
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
12/08/2025 - Climbing
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
In Mozambique, Mirco Grasso and Samuele Mazzolini have established 'O caminho dos cogumelos' on the east face of Mount Panda, also known as Phandambiri. Nearly 900 meters high and graded 7a, this is the first route on this granite monolith. The two climbers are part of a larger expedition that...
New climb on Nevado Cashan in Peru dedicated to Carlos Suárez
10/08/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Nevado Cashan in Peru dedicated to Carlos Suárez
On 26 and 27 July 2025 Manuel López and Alex Úbeda established a new mixed climb on the northwest face of Nevado Cashan (5686m) in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes. The route is dedicated to the famous Spanish mountaineer Carlos Suarez, who perished in a base jumping...
Cenerentolo added to Aiguille de la Brenva (Mont Blanc) by Carlo Filippi, Isaie Maquignaz, Francesco Ratti
08/08/2025 - Alpinism
Cenerentolo added to Aiguille de la Brenva (Mont Blanc) by Carlo Filippi, Isaie Maquignaz, Francesco Ratti
On the SE Face of Aiguille de la Brenva (3278m) in the Mont Blanc massif the Italian alpinists Carlo Filippi, Isaie Maquignaz and Francesco Ratti have made the first ascent of 'Cenerentolo' (460m, 7b max/6c oblig).
Solleder-Lettenbauer on Civetta celebrates 100th anniversary
07/08/2025 - Alpinism
Solleder-Lettenbauer on Civetta celebrates 100th anniversary
Today, 7 August 2025, the 'Solleder-Lettenbauer' route on the Northwest Face of Civetta in the Dolomites turns 100 years old. First ascended in a single day by Gustav Lettenbauer and Emil Solleder on 7 August 1925, this climb is renowned for being the first sixth grade route in the Alps....
'Grande U' skyline enchainment in Val Bondasca completed by Benjamin Bosshard & Filippo Sala
06/08/2025 - Alpinism
'Grande U' skyline enchainment in Val Bondasca completed by Benjamin Bosshard & Filippo Sala
From 30 - 31 July Swiss alpinists Benjamin Bosshard and Filippo Sala completed what is known as the Grande U of Bondasca, ie the enchainment of all the main summits above Valle Bondasca. The huge skyline between Passo della Turbinasca and Passo Cacciabella includes 17 summits, 29km and 4900 elevation...
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
05/08/2025 - Interviews
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
An strong Italian expedition comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Tommaso Lamantia and Marco Majori is currently on its way to Patagonia where it aims to make the first winter ascent of the Casarotto route on the Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy.
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
01/08/2025 - Alpinism
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
Italian alpinists Davide Bacci, Enrico Bittelli, Dario Eynard and Giacomo Meliffi have made the first ascent of 'L'oro dello Yukon' on Middle Huey Spire on the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada.
Laura Rogora claims historic first female 8c+ onsight, 'Ultimate Sacrifice' at the Gorges du Loup
28/07/2025 - Climbing
Laura Rogora claims historic first female 8c+ onsight, 'Ultimate Sacrifice' at the Gorges du Loup
Italian climber Laura Rogora has become the first woman in the world to onsight 8c+ with her ascent earlier today of 'Ultimate Sacrifice' at the Gorges du Loup in France.
New free climbs on Merriam Peak and Fish Tale Spire in Sierra Nevada, USA
28/07/2025 - Climbing
New free climbs on Merriam Peak and Fish Tale Spire in Sierra Nevada, USA
Japhy Dhungana and Zach Lovell have made the first free ascent of 'Dr. Bear Love' on Merriam Peak (3,993m) in the Sierra Nevada, USA. The 400m route was established in 2012 by Luke Stefurak and Casey Zak and now goes free at 7c+. During the same trip Dhungana and Lovell...
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Dani Arnold, Alexander Huber, Simon Gietl
22/07/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Jirishanca in Peru by Dani Arnold, Alexander Huber, Simon Gietl
Dani Arnold, Alexander Huber and Simon Gietl have made the first ascent of 'Kolibri' on Jirishanca in Peru.
Classic 'Velebitaški' in Paklenica (Croatia) illuminated to celebrate Velebit Mountaineering Club
18/07/2025 - Climbing
Classic 'Velebitaški' in Paklenica (Croatia) illuminated to celebrate Velebit Mountaineering Club
The iconic multi-pitch climb 'Velebitaški' on Anića Kuk in the Paklenica National Park, Croatia, was illuminated on 15 June 2025 by the Velebit Mountaineering Club to celebrate its 75th anniversary. The 350m 6a+ was first ascended in autumn 1961 by Nedjeljko Jakić, Matija Mlinac and Davor Ribarov
Hunza Peak SE Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
15/07/2025 - Alpinism
Hunza Peak SE Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák have made the first ascent of the previously unclimbed southeast face of Hunza Peak (7300m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. The two Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style ofver a period of 5 days at the start of June.