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Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
07/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has made the fourth free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. First climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2015, it was repeated by Adam Ondra in 2016 and is known as the most difficult big wall climb in the...
Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
03/02/2025 - Alpinism
Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
On 22 January 2025, in Valle di Enghe above Sappada in NE Italy, the two InMont mountain guides Gianni Dorigo and Samuel Straulino established the new mixed climb 'L’Orco non va mai in vacanza' (The Ogre Never Goes on Holiday). Below is Dorigo’s report.
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
22/01/2025 - Climbing
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
British rock climber Fay Manners reports about a climbing trip to Morocco towards the end of last year which resulted in the first ascents of three new trad climbs together with
'Cadeau de Noël' established on Aiguille du Toula (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Federica Furia
28/12/2024 - Alpinism
'Cadeau de Noël' established on Aiguille du Toula (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Federica Furia
On 25/12/2024 Niccolò Bruni and Federica Furia made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Cadeau de Noël' on Aiguille de Toule (3534m) in the Mont Blanc massif.
Hannes Puman climbs The Nose free via Schnaz Variation
13/12/2024 - Climbing
Hannes Puman climbs The Nose free via Schnaz Variation
Climbing with Jamie Lowther from Scotland, Sweden's Hannes Puman has completed a free ascent of 'The Nose' on El Capitan in Yosemite via what is known as the Schnaz Variation.
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
25/11/2024 - Interviews
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
Interview with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl after her ground-breaking, historic flash ascent of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Giovanni Placci sends Erebor (9b) at Arco
22/11/2024 - Climbing
Giovanni Placci sends Erebor (9b) at Arco
On 19/11/2024 Giovanni Placci redpointed Erebor at the Eremo di San Paolo crag in Arco, Italy.
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.
Laura Pineau grabs Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco
09/10/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau grabs Greenspit in Valle dell'Orco
French climber Laura Pineau has repeated 'Greenspit' in Valle dell'Orco, Italy. First ascended by Didier Berthod over 20 years ago, this coveted crack climb had been climbed only once before by a woman, by Barbara Zangerl in 2020. Pineau reports of the 'magical day', during which Giacomo Meliffi also sent...
Alex Megos climbs Change (9b+) at Flatanger in just 5 days
23/08/2024 - Climbing
Alex Megos climbs Change (9b+) at Flatanger in just 5 days
German climber Alexander Megos has repeated Change, the 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway established by Adam Ondra in 2012 and hitherto repeated by only Stefano Ghisolfi in 2020 and Seb Bouin in 2022.
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
28/06/2024 - Competitions
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers and 14 Speed athletes to qualify for the Paris...
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
On 25/03/2024 Franz Anstein, Federico Maremonti and Andreas Tonelli skied what is likely to be a new line on Piz de Puez in the Dolomites, Italy. Called 'Canal sëura l uët', this couloir provides difficulties in the region of 5.1 E4, as Anstein explains in his report.
Watch Cédric Lachat climb Chimpanzodrome, historic Jean-Pierre Bouvier 7c+ at Saussois
11/04/2024 - Alpinism
Watch Cédric Lachat climb Chimpanzodrome, historic Jean-Pierre Bouvier 7c+ at Saussois
The video of Swiss climber Cedric Lachat onsighting 'Chimpanzodrome', the historic 7c+ at Saussois in France first ascended in 1981 by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
26/03/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
Sébastien Berthe has repeated 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The route was repeated for the first time by Adam Ondra in February 2023, and Berthe's is now the third ascent. The Belgian climber, who in 2023 flashed the adjacent 'Le...