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Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
05/11/2004 - Climbing
Jean-François Beaulieu frees La Zébrée, trad 8b+
In mid-October Jean-François Beaulieu from Canada pinkpointed an old aid project, La Zébrée at Mont-King, Val David, Québec, grading it 8b+
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
04/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
Last week the Italian Ragni di Lecco celebrated the 30th anniversary of the first ascent of the emblem of Patagonian mountaineering, the West Face of Cerro Torre.
Orco Valley new routes
26/10/2004 - Climbing
Orco Valley new routes
At the end of September Massimo Farina and Ezio Marlier put up two new routes in the mythical granite Valle dell' Orco (Italy), Tatanka (270m, max 7c, 6c obbl.) and Tomawauk Dance (165m, max 7c, 7a obbl.).
Ogden and Martin hard and free in Greenland
14/10/2004 - Alpinism
Ogden and Martin hard and free in Greenland
Americans Jared Ogden and Nathan Martin complete a new free line on Nalumasortoq’s 2,000-foot face, Greenland.
Yuji Hirayama, the White Zombie 8c onsight interview
07/10/2004 - Interviews
Yuji Hirayama, the White Zombie 8c onsight interview
An interview with Yuji Hirayama after the first ever 8c on-sight: White Zombi in the Baltzola Cave, Spain.
Remembering Roberto Bassi
07/10/2004 - Climbing
Remembering Roberto Bassi
28 September marks the 10th anniversary of Roberto Bassi's death. To remember the Italian climber but also share his masterpieces with those climbers who do not know about him, the Italian Alpin Club Sezione CAI SAT di Mattarello (TN) and Bassi's friends have organised an evening at the hall at...
Serik Kazbekov & Natalia Perlova, venetian holidays
29/09/2004 - Climbing
Serik Kazbekov & Natalia Perlova, venetian holidays
Serik Kazbekov on-sights Ghegoro 8b+ Covolo and flashes Shalom 8b/+, while Natalia Perlova redpoints Buona notte Fiorellino 7c+ at the same crag.
Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
29/09/2004 - Climbing
Taghia new route by Oviglia and Sarti
Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti have made the first ascent of "Enfant de sable" 7a max, 6c obl., on the south face of Jbel Tramazine, High Atlas, Morocco.
Yvon Chouinard, Time's up
28/09/2004 - Interviews
Yvon Chouinard, Time's up
In an open letter Yvon Chouinard, mountaineer, surfer, fly fisherman and founder of "Patagonia", the famous American outdoor clothing company explains how urgent and pressing the envirnmental issue is.
Greenland 2004
17/09/2004 - Alpinism
Greenland 2004
At the start of August a four-man team composed of Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio and Giangi Angeloni travelled to the south of Greenland to explore the immense granite walls that tower above the fjords and glaciers.
FFA of Cani morti by Manolo and Scarian
14/09/2004 - Interviews
FFA of Cani morti by Manolo and Scarian
On 23 August Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla and Riccardo "Sky" Scarian both made the first free ascent of "Cani morti", their 2003 testpiece on the north face of Campanile Basso di Lastei, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
K2: first repeat of
09/09/2004 - Alpinism
K2: first repeat of "Magic line" dedicated to Manel De La Matta
the Catalan expedition and the first repeat of the magic line on K2, Himalaya.
Rock Master 2004 results and reflections
06/09/2004 - Competitions
Rock Master 2004 results and reflections
Angela Eiter e Alexander Chabot win the Rock Master 2004 in Arco
Arco Rock Master 2004
03/09/2004 - Competitions
Arco Rock Master 2004
The Rock Master 2004 will take place in Arco di Trento on 3-4 September 2004.
Brakk Zang: new route by Stucchi, Davila, Lazzarini, Colnago
01/09/2004 - Alpinism
Brakk Zang: new route by Stucchi, Davila, Lazzarini, Colnago
From 12 -14/08/2004 Silvestro Stucchi, Elena Davila, Anna Lazzarini and Enea Colnago made the first ascent of "Hasta la vista David" (VI+, A1), a new 750m route up the SW Face of Brakk Zang (Baltistan-Pakistan).
Aiguille du Midi cable car 1st section closed
04/08/2004 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Midi cable car 1st section closed
An accident, caused by human error and thankfully with no fateful consequences, has forced the operators to close the Mont Blanc first section until September.

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