Greenland 2004

At the start of August a four-man team composed of Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio and Giangi Angeloni travelled to the south of Greenland to explore the immense granite walls that tower above the fjords and glaciers.

Sergio dalla Longa

September 2004

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Small expeditions, unexplored terrain and grassroots mountaineering. At the start of August a four-man team composed of Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio and Giangi Angeloni travelled to the south of Greenland to explore the immense granite walls that tower above the fjords and glaciers.

After battling against the elements, and in particular the furious mosquitos, the team turned up trumps with two "old-style" ascents "in a truly wild natural habitat."

The first route, âSandro e Vitoâ climbs the north face of an unnamed mountain and is graded IV+. The four found a cairn on the top, but believe the mountain's first ascent was carried out up the easier south face.

The second climbs the hitherto untouched âCima Lorenzoâ up an obvious pillar. âFreedom pillarâ climbs excellent granite and is graded V+.

Groenlandia Fiordo Kangikitsoq

The difficulties are obviously not extreme but, as Dalla Longa puts it: "the experience is enriched by the fact that we climbed in a truly wild natural habitat, with the uncertainty of being on unexplored terrain and the sensation of being on the edge of the world, but with the conviction of having climbed as an efficient, harmonious, friendly team."

What else could one ask for?

Greenland
Kangikitsoq Fjord, Cape Farewell

Cima Senza Nome 1900m
Via 'Sandro e Vito'
F.a. Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio Spiranelli, Giangi Angeloni. (07/2004)
Length: 300m
Grade: IV+
Orientation: North
The route climbs the north face.

Cima Lorenza 1030m
Via Freedom Pillar
F.a. Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio Spiranelli, Giangi Angeloni. (07/2004)
Length: 600m - 22 pitches
Grade: V+
Orientation: East
The route climbs the obvious pillar up excellent granite, to continue a further 250m up the crest to the summit.

top: 'Sandro e Vito'
left: ascending Freedom Pillar.
ph. archivio Dalla Longa