FFA of Cani morti by Manolo and Scarian
On 23 August Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla and Riccardo "Sky" Scarian both made the first free ascent of "Cani morti", their 2003 testpiece on the north face of Campanile Basso di Lastei, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
On 23 August Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla and Riccardo "Sky" Scarian both made the first free ascent of "Cani morti", their 2003 testpiece on the north face of Campanile Basso di Lastei, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites. Last year the route remained incomplete, and the duo returned in August to free their work in progress, which now weighs in at a massive 8b+, and 8a obligatory. Incredibly, the line was bolted on lead.
Scarian describes the route as follows: "it was climbed from the ground up, with a rigorous and clean climbing ethic, without prior toprope practice, without additional nuts or frends, and without fixed ropes for the final redpoint." Manolo adds "The choice... of using only bolts and excluding all other means of protection seemed to us to be the most honest possible: the bolts protected us every now and then, but also indelibly demonstrated our weakness..."
What the two attempted to do is without a doubt a singular search for the extreme limit, via an important "style" of ascent: their choice is above all personal, and goes well beyond the grade and number of bolts placed. Repeaters, be warned!
The route by Riccardo Scarian
Campanili dei Lastei, Pale di San Martino (Dolomites)
Via "Cani morti"
F.A. Riccardo Scarian and Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla summer 2003, ground up ascent, few bolts.
F.F.A. Riccardo Scarian and Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla on 23 August 2004.
Grade: max 8b+, obblig 8a
Pitch 1: 23m, 7m overhanging, 8b/8b+, 8a obblig, 4 bolts
Pitch 2: 33m 8a/8a+, 4 bolts, 4-5m overhanging, great overhanging stamina pitch up excellent rock
Pitch 3: 35m, 8a, 6 bolts, beautiful.
Pitch 4: 55m, 7b, 3 bolts
Pitch 5 50m, 6c+, 2 bolts
Descent: Abseil easily down the route, take care to clip into some bolts on the first pitches.
Gear: two 60m ropes and 6 quickdraws.
Access: From Falcadecontinue to Molino, at the campsite continue fo rif. Mulaz to casera Focobon (bivouac). From here walk to Passo Lucan, and then traverse along the north face along broken ledges and easy scramble to the arete. .
Photo: Manolo on the first pitch of "Cani morti" and the line of ascent (ph Riccardo Scarian).