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Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
12/10/2020 - Alpinism
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition
In October 2019 an Austrian expedition comprised of Alexander Blümel, Much Mayr, Peter Mühlburger and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Baba Ji on Raldang Spire in the Baspa Valley, Kinnaur, India. Mühlburger reports.
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
02/10/2020 - Interviews
Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor
22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif
19/09/2020 - Alpinism
Punta Dufour, new cross placed on highest mountain in Monte Rosa massif
The video of the new cross on Punta Dufour, at 4634 meters in altitude the highest mountain in the Monte Rosa massif.
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
17/09/2020 - Climbing
Giacomo Meliffi makes free solo ascent of Legoland, legendary crack climb in Valle dell’Orco
Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
31/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in 1 hour 30 minutes
On 27/08/2020 Filip Babicz soloed the South Ridge of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in a blazing time of 1:30:14.
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
27/08/2020 - Alpinism
From Hell to Heaven, Hervé Barmasse and Stefano Perrone climb new route in Piantonetto Valley, Italy
Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse reports about Dall'inferno al Paradiso, from hell to heaven, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Torre del Gran San Pietro above the Piantonetto Valley (Orco Valley, Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy) first ascended with Stefano Perrone.
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
20/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe fancy Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Wilder Kaiser
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse have made a single-day, ground-up repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+), first ascended by Stefan Glowacz in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria in 1994.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs
Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites
03/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Lifestyle, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Torre del Lago (Fanis Group - Lagazuoi group) in the Dolomites.
Brenta Dolomites Via ferrata Bocchette Alte reopens
30/07/2020 - Trekking
Brenta Dolomites Via ferrata Bocchette Alte reopens
The world-famous Via Ferrata Bocchette Alte in the Brenta Dolomites reopened on 28 July 2020 after maintenance.
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
22/07/2020 - Alpinism
Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time
On Repswand in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Klaus Gössinger have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch alpine sports climb Prime Time.

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