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Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Laura Rogora and Gabriele Moroni end 2019 on a high at Margalef
01/01/2020 - Climbing
Laura Rogora and Gabriele Moroni end 2019 on a high at Margalef
At Margalef in Spain Gabriele Moroni has repeated Demencia Senil 9a+ while Laura Rogora has sent Pal Norte 8c+/9a.
Once in a Lifetime climbed integritas in Langental, Dolomites
29/12/2019 - Alpinism
Once in a Lifetime climbed integritas in Langental, Dolomites
In Val Lietres (Langental, Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have repeated Once in a Lifetime, which they first ascended in February 2018. This is probably the first time that the icefall up Col Turont has been climbed entirely on ice. Riegler reports.
Stefano Ghisolfi fires Santa Linya’s Stoking the Fire 9b
28/12/2019 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi fires Santa Linya’s Stoking the Fire 9b
Today at Santa Linya in Spain Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated Stoking the Fire, the 9b sports climb established in 2013 Chris Sharma.
Michi Wohlleben calm, cool and collected on Psychogramm, 8b+ trad slab
18/12/2019 - Climbing
Michi Wohlleben calm, cool and collected on Psychogramm, 8b+ trad slab
German climber Michi Wohlleben has repeated Psychogramm, the 8b+ trad climb at the Bürser Platte in Austria, first ascended in 2014 by Alex Luger.
Filip Babicz completes Ade Integrale, D15+ total dry deep in Gran Borna cave, Italy
17/12/2019 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz completes Ade Integrale, D15+ total dry deep in Gran Borna cave, Italy
On 26 November 2019 Filip Babicz completed Ade Integrale, a testing dry tooling route in the Gran Borna cave close to La Thuile in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. The Pole suggests D15+. The route is completely natural but, being total dry, climbs no ice whatsoever.
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
14/12/2019 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing: Val Lasties Solo per un altro Hashtag integritas
In Val Lasties, Sella, Dolomites, Santiago Padrós and Diego Toigo have repeated the icefall Solo per un altro Hashtag avoiding the first mixed pitch. This is perhaps the first time that this pearl of the Dolomites has been climbed entirely on ice.
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
12/12/2019 - Book-press
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
Interview with British rock climber Pete Whittaker about his new book Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques
Sport climbing Olympic Games Tokyo 2020: women's qualifiers in Toulouse today
29/11/2019 - Competitions
Sport climbing Olympic Games Tokyo 2020: women's qualifiers in Toulouse today
The second, decisive Olympic Qualifying Event for the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games continues today in Toulouse, France, with the women’s qualification. Live streaming starts at 11:00 with Speed, followed by Boulder at 13:00 and Lead at 16:45. Those who got a pass yesterday are Adam Ondra, YuFei Pan, Alberto...
Brad Gobright perishes in climbing accident in Mexico
28/11/2019 - Climbing
Brad Gobright perishes in climbing accident in Mexico
Highly talented US climber Brad Gobright has lost his life in a climbing accident on the multi-pitch El Sendero Luminoso at El Potrero Chico in Mexico.
Lynn Hill on The Nose 26 years after her historic first free ascent
25/11/2019 - Climbing
Lynn Hill on The Nose 26 years after her historic first free ascent
A recent clip of Lynn Hill working The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite and a video regarding her historic first one day ascent in 1994.
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
21/11/2019 - Climbing
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
Eliza Kubarska provides the latest updates about the climbing on the elusive Mystery Wall situated in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman Island in Malaysia.
Jernej Kruder climbs childhood dream, Dreamtime at Cresciano
21/11/2019 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs childhood dream, Dreamtime at Cresciano
28-year-old Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has repeated Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland, the frist boulder probelm in the world to be graded 8C, established by Fred Nicole in 2000.
New Campanile Basso rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
11/11/2019 - Alpinism
New Campanile Basso rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
On the north face of Campanile Basso in the Brenta Dolomites Alessandro Beber, Gianni Canale and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of Destrani, a new rock climb located between Spigolo Graffer and Via Maestri Claus.
Anak Verhoeven 8b+ onsight, 9a+ redpoint at Oliana in Spain
09/11/2019 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven 8b+ onsight, 9a+ redpoint at Oliana in Spain
At Oliana in Spain Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has onsighted an 8b+, Gorilas en la Niebla, and redpointed a 9a+, Joe Mama, conferming her status as one of the best climbers in the world.
New Civetta Dolomites climb by Davide Cassol, Luca Vallata
01/11/2019 - Alpinism
New Civetta Dolomites climb by Davide Cassol, Luca Vallata
Last summer Belluno alpinists Luca Vallata and Davide Cassol made the first ascent Capitani di Ventura, a big new multi-pitch climb that reaches the summit of Punta Civetta in the Dolomites. Established after four attempts, it breaches difficulties up to VIII-/A1 and tackles a line between Chimera Verticale and the...

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