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Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
24/02/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
19/02/2021 - Alpinism
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
The report about the first Ice Climbing Meeting that took place in January in the wonderful Nubra Valley, India. This event proved to be important, above all because it’s the first of its kind in the Ladakh region. The report by Ladakh Nomad Expeditions.
Simon Lorenzi talks Soudain seul, his 9A boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France
18/02/2021 - Interviews
Simon Lorenzi talks Soudain seul, his 9A boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France
Interview with Simon Lorenzi after the first ascent of Soudain seul, ie the sit start to Big Island at Fontainebleau in France, which the Belgian rock climber has graded 9A.
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
17/02/2021 - Alpinism
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
Maximilian Buck reports about the first winter ascent of Franz Rasp Ged. Weg up the huge east face of Watzmann (Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany), carried out in December 2020 with Lando Peters.
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia
Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of Patagonia has been climbed in its entirety in a single...
Antarctica: exploration and research with Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Marcello Sanguineti
11/02/2021 - Alpinism
Antarctica: exploration and research with Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Marcello Sanguineti
The second episode of the Karpos web series 'Antarctica: beyond the end of the world' featuring the Italian mountaineers Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Marcello Sanguineti exploring fjords, valleys, and glaciers with kayaks, skis, and sleds.
Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli fire Exocet at Lauterbrunnen
01/02/2021 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli fire Exocet at Lauterbrunnen
The report by Swiss mountaineer Roger Schäli who, with Dani Arnold on 19/01/2021, made the first ascent of Exocet, a mixed climb in Lauterbrunnental, Switzerland.
Florian Riegler frees Skinwalker, difficult crack climb above Bozen, Italy
21/01/2021 - Climbing
Florian Riegler frees Skinwalker, difficult crack climb above Bozen, Italy
South Tyrolean climber Florian Riegler has made the first ascent of Skinwalker, a difficult single-pitch trad climb on the outskirts of Bolzano.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
15/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter, decisive phase begins in earnest
The attempt to climb K2 in winter is entering the decisive moments, with Camp 4 installed at 7800 meters by the various Sherpa teams led by Nirmal Purja, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks.
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
08/01/2021 - Alpinism
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
31/12/2020 - Alpinism
K2 Winter, Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa join forces at altitude
K2 winter update: diverse teams of mountaineers are attempting the first winter ascent of K2, the only 8000er never climbed before in the coldest season. The Nepalese teams led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa joined forces at altitude and have fixed ropes almost to Camp 3.
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
30/12/2020 - Alpinism
New bold Scottish winter climb on Church Door Buttress by Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, Graham McGrath
Climbing with Hamish Frost and Graham McGrath, Greg Boswell has established False Penance, another bold new winter climb to Church Door Buttress on Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe in Scotland.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.