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Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
16/03/2009 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
On Sunday 15/03 Nives Meroi and Romano Benet departed from Italy to attempt Kangchenjunga, their 12th 8000m peak. Located on the border between Nepal and India, this 8586m mountain is the third highest in the world.
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
13/03/2009 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
Beat Kammerlander has made the first ascent of the trad route "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/8b+, E9-E10) at the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria.
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
Łukasz Dudek repeats Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec, Slovenia
04/03/2009 - Climbing
Łukasz Dudek repeats Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec, Slovenia
Lukasz Dudek has repeated Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec close to the village Osp in Slovenia.
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
23/02/2009 - Alpinism
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.
Val Senales: ski mountaineering in Italy
Val Senales: ski mountaineering in Italy
A selection of ski mountaineering itineraries in the Val Senales, South Tyrol, Italy.
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
16/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
On 25/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione and Massimo Coccalatto carried out the first ascent of Alta tensione (60m, II/5+) a new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo (Switzerland). On 01/02 Francesco Vaudo and Silvia Preti made the first ascent of nearby La stangata (60m, III/5+).
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).

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