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Reinhold Messner, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges are the 2018 Arco Rock Legends
28/07/2018 - Events
Reinhold Messner, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges are the 2018 Arco Rock Legends
On Friday, 27th July 2018 the coveted Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn di Aquafi was awarded to Reinhold Messner during the 13th Arco Rock Legends awards. Adam Ondra won the Wild Country Rock Award and Romain Desgranges the La Sportiva Competition Award. The other candidates were Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos, Janja...
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
10/07/2018 - Alpinism
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson reports about his repeat of El Ojo Critico, the difficult multi-pitch trad climb ascended in Spain’s Ordesa National Park by Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi in 2007 and repeated previously only by Unai Mendia and Iker Madoz. Belayed by Caroline Ciavaldini, Pearson managed to onsight...
Reinhold Messner at Arco Rock Legends / All the climbing Oscar nominations
29/06/2018 - Events
Reinhold Messner at Arco Rock Legends / All the climbing Oscar nominations
On Friday 27 July 2018 the Arco Rock Legends sport climbing Oscars will celebrate its XIII edition awarding the prestigious Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn di Aquafil to Reinhold Messner. Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra have been nominated for the Wild Country Rock Award, while Romain Desgranges, Janja Garnbret, Reza...
Magic Wood, new trad climb in Swiss bouldering paradise
24/06/2018 - Climbing
Magic Wood, new trad climb in Swiss bouldering paradise
At Magic Wood in Switzerland Lorin Etzel and Samuel Würtz have established 'Alte Flamme, neuer Docht', not a new boulder problem but a new 5-pitch trad climb.
Vertical Jungfrau Marathon by Roger Schäli & David Hefti
22/06/2018 - Alpinism
Vertical Jungfrau Marathon by Roger Schäli & David Hefti
Mountaineering video: the vertical marathon of Roger Schäli and David Hefti who on 22 August 2013 climbed more than 3300m elevation gain and 23 pitches up to 7a+ to reach the summit of Jungfrau in Switzerland’s Overland Bernese in 16 hours.
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
19/06/2018 - Interviews
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
Interview with Anne Gilbert Chase after the ninth ascent and first female ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali, climbed from 2 - 5 June 2018 with Chantel Astorga.
Gabriele Moroni: interview after historic gold in Japan Boulder World Cup
08/06/2018 - Interviews
Gabriele Moroni: interview after historic gold in Japan Boulder World Cup
Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moroni after last week’s victory in Japan at the Hachioji stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2018.
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell break The Nose Speed record again
05/06/2018 - Climbing
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell break The Nose Speed record again
Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell have broken the speed record on The Nose once again, climbing the iconic big wall on El Capitan Yosemite in 2:01:50. In other news, on 2 June the two well-known rock climbers Jason Wells and Tim Klein lost their lives on El Capitan.
Angelika Rainer, from drytooling D15 to 8c sports climbing
28/05/2018 - Climbing
Angelika Rainer, from drytooling D15 to 8c sports climbing
South Tyrolean climber Angelika Rainer reports about her first 8c sports climb, Cinque Uve at Narango (Arco), that comes in the wake of her D15 dry tooling ascent last winter.
Alexander Megos and Perfecto Mundo at Margalef / The 9b+ interview
11/05/2018 - Interviews
Alexander Megos and Perfecto Mundo at Margalef / The 9b+ interview
Interview with Alexander Megos after the first ascent of Perfecto Mundo, the sports climb freed on Wednesday 9 May 2018 at Margalef in Spain graded a staggering 9b+ by the 24-year-old German climber.
Thomas Bubendorfer climbs new route up Großglockner after Dolomites accident
10/05/2018 - Alpinism
Thomas Bubendorfer climbs new route up Großglockner after Dolomites accident
13 months after his life-threatening accident at Sottoguda in the Dolomites, Austrian mountaineer Thomas Bubendorfer has established a new mixed climb up on the South Face of Grossglockner (3798 m) in Austria. The new route is called Das dritte Leben, The Third life, and Bubendorfer established the line with Max...
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
08/05/2018 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 8 May 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to climb Mount Everest (8848m) without supplemental oxygen. The barrier-breaking undertaking deemed impossible that forever changed Himalayan mountaineering and raised the bar for all future ascents.
Melloblocco in Tour 2018, thoughts and words
06/05/2018 - Climbing
Melloblocco in Tour 2018, thoughts and words
The 15th edition of Melloblocco, the great climbing and bouldering festival that took place from 3 to 6 May between Lugano and Cresciano (Switzerland) together with MBB Street Boulder Lugano, was completed.
Melloblocco in Tour: time to dream, climb and boulder at Cresciano
04/05/2018 - Climbing
Melloblocco in Tour: time to dream, climb and boulder at Cresciano
Cresciano, the great little bouldering paradise is hosting the Melloblocco in Tour bouldering meeting until Sunday 6 May. The time has come to dream and climb together.
Fred Nicole, bouldering at Cresciano and Melloblocco in Tour 2018
01/05/2018 - Interviews
Fred Nicole, bouldering at Cresciano and Melloblocco in Tour 2018
Interview with world-famous Swiss climber Fred Nicole in the run-up to Melloblocco 2018 that will take place from 3 to 6 May at Cresciano and Lugano. In 2000 Nicole made the first free ascent of Dreamtime, the first 8C boulder problem in the world.
Melloblocco in Tour 2018, instructions for use
30/04/2018 - Climbing
Melloblocco in Tour 2018, instructions for use
Information before the start of the four-day Melloblocco in Tour & MMB Street Boulder 2018 that will take place at Cresciano and Lugano (CH) from Thursday 3 to Sunday 6 May 2018.

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