356 News found

Interview with Alan Watts, the climber who played a leading role during the 1980's in developing Smith Rock into one of the most famous crags in the USA and the world.

In September the Slovenians Rok Blagus, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj climbed three new routes in the Bhagirathi group located in the Gangotri region in the Indian Himalaya.

On 26/27/08/2009 Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira carried out the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (550m 8b) on the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.

Between 11 and 14 August 2009 the German brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber carried out the first redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary route up the S Buttress of Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan. The route had been established in 1989 by the Germans Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof...

In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos Lindos (5.11-) on Pirita Central.

With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.

Interview with Adam Ondra after the long-awaited second ascent of Open Air at the Schleierwasserfall and the first onsight of Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia.

At the start of October Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva added a new free route, "The Secret Passage" 5.13c to El Capitan, Yosemite.

From 23 July to 9 August Silvia Vidal and Youri Cappis carried out the first ascent of "Entre boires" A3/6a+/80º on the East Face of Huascaran North (Cordillera Blanca, Peru).

From 21 – 24 January 2008 the Italo-Argentine mountaineer Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley from the U.S.A. carried out the first traverse of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre, one of the most coveted projects in Patagonia.

In July Sílvia Vidal from Spain made the solo first ascent of "Life is Lilac" (A4+, 6a, 870m) on the NE Pillar of Shipton Spire, Trango, Pakistan

This summer a four-man team comprised of the Belgians Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse, his brother Olivier Favresse and Adam Pustelnik from Poland travelled to Pakistan where they made three impressive big wall first ascents in the Charakusa Valley.

On 6/07 the Slovenian mountaineers Pavle Kozjekande Gregor Kresal made the first ascent of Stonehenge (VII+/VI, 70/50° ice, 600m), up the East face of Puscantrupa Este (5410m), Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.

In February 2007 Cyrille Berthod and Simon Anthamatten travelled to Patagonia for their first time ever and climbed 8 major peaks in the Fitz Roy massif - De L’S, Saint Exupery, St.Raphael, Poincenot, Fitz Roy, Mermoz, Guillaumet and Cerro Torre.

Dodo Kopold and Gabo Cmarik have made the f.a. of the NW Face of Uli Biaho 6417m, Karakorum, Pakistan. They also climbed a route up Hainabrakk East Tower (5800m) to 5375m.

Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj has returned from a five week trip to Patagonia where, dodging typical unstable weather, he made two fast ascents together with the Americans Stephen Koch and Dean Potter, one on Cerro Torre and one on Torre Standhardt.