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Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
20/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Berthe sends his first 9a+, Super-Crackinette at St. Leger
Belgian climber Seb Berthe reports about his first 9a+ redpoint, Super-Crackinette at Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux in France. Success came about after a relentless summer on some of the hardest multi-pitch climbs across the Alps.
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
16/11/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert at Magic Wood frees La Force Tranquille Direct 8C
At Magic Wood in Switzerland Jakob Schubert has made the first ascent of the 8C boulder problem La Force Tranquille Direct.
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
13/11/2020 - Climbing
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
26/10/2020 - Interviews
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
Interview with British rock climber James Pearson after the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher in 2019
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
23/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts
Alpinists Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed and impressive East Face of Mount Forbes (3612 m) in the Canadian Rockies.
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
22/10/2020 - Alpinism
Xylophon added to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites, by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The climbers belonging to the GAG Val Gardena mountaineering club Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth have established Xylophon, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites, Italy.
Graham Zimmerman, an Imperfect Advocate
17/10/2020 - Environment
Graham Zimmerman, an Imperfect Advocate
American alpinist Graham Zimmerman, winner of the Piolets d’Or 2020, sees see firsthand the effects of human-driven climate change on the world and decides that he must take action. This forces him to confront his personal carbon footprint to become an Imperfect Advocate.
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
New Karwendel plaisir climbs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf
13/10/2020 - Climbing
New Karwendel plaisir climbs on Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf
On Unterer Spitzhüttenkopf in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Stephan Weckschmied have made the first ascent of four short plaisir climbs: Zeugungsschmerz (IV, 75m), Schwere Geburt (IV-, 100m), Y Chromosom (VI+, 60m) and X Chromosom (VI, 95m)
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
23/09/2020 - Alpinism
Ang Rita Sherpa, Nepal's legendary Everest mountaineer, passes away
Ang Rita Sherpa, the legendary Nepalese mountaineer nicknamed Snow Leopard and famous for having climbed Everest 10 times without the use of supplementary oxygen between 1983 and 1996, passed away yesterday at 72.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
08/09/2020 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.
Cédric Lachat climbing Wogü in Rätikon massif, Switzerland
04/09/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat climbing Wogü in Rätikon massif, Switzerland
The video of Cédric Lachat repeating Wogü in Rätikon, the difficult multi-pitch climb established by Beat Kammerlander and freed by Adam Ondra in 2008.