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Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
18/07/2024 - Competitions
Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Lijuan Deng of China and Ludovico Fossali of Italy.
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
17/07/2024 - Alpinism
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
16/07/2024 - Competitions
Chamonix, nothing will ever be the same again
The Lead and Speed​World Cup took place in Chamonix, France, last weekend and was won respectively by Ai Mori and Colin Duffy, and by Zhang Shaoqin and Sam Watson. Fabio Palma reports
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
15/07/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
French climber Laura Pineau reports about some of her most recent ascents that include a free repeat of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite and a fast repeat of 'Turkey Crack' at Cadarese in Italy.
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
13/07/2024 - Climbing
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
The video of French climber Jules Marchaland making a rare repeat of 'Three Degrees of Separation', the iconic 9a+ freed by Chris Sharma in 2007.
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
12/07/2024 - Events
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
Pro climber Caroline Ciavaldini reports about the Grimpeuses climbing meeting for women that took place on the outskirts of Paris at the end of May.
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with...
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to...
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
09/07/2024 - Alpinism
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
The short film 'Embracing the Grim' by Aleksandra Janiak featuring Fay Manners and Line van den Berg, the talented Dutch alpinist who perished in 2023
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
08/07/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
From 25 - 29 June 2024 the Japanese climbers Keisuke Ohkura, Kazumasa Ostubo and Yudai Suzuki made the first ascent of 'Dream House' (1240m, M6, AI5+, A2, R/X, VI) on the Quitaraju (6036m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Ferro, the cool summer crag  in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Italy)
05/07/2024 - Climbing
Ferro, the cool summer crag in Val del Ferro (Val di Mello, Italy)
Ferro is an atypical crag, a long way from the valley floor, immersed in unique alpine environment, where climbing is only a small part of the equation. Simone Pedeferri introduces the crag Ferro crag in Val del Ferro (Val di...
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
01/07/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
The fourth IFSC World Cup stage of the season took place in Innsbruck, Austria last week. Boulder was won by Janja Garnbret and Amagasa Sohta, while Lead was won by Garnbret and Jakob Schubert.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...

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