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Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
08/06/2010 - Climbing
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Tim Emmett has made the first ascent of 'Muy Caliente!' E10 6c at Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
06/06/2010 - Competitions
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
More than 500 young athletes aged 5 -13 from 20 different countries made the ninth edition of the Rock Junior a success. Chris Sharma, one of the greatest climbers of all times, paid homage to the world's biggest youth climbing event.
Rock Junior, the first day of the European climbing festival
05/06/2010 - Events
Rock Junior, the first day of the European climbing festival
The first day of the Arco Rock Junior was marked by sun and climbing. More than 400 climbers took part in the Under 14 Cup and the Climbing Campus. This year's exceptional testimonial was star climber Chris Sharma.
Zaila Rakhmetov, encouraging news
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Zaila Rakhmetov, encouraging news
Encouraging news about Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Salavat and Guzel Rakhmetov.
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
03/06/2010 - Alpinism
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
British climbers Mike 'Twid' Turner, Stuart McAleese and Mark Thomas have established their new route Arctic Monkeys (VI A4 V+ 1400m) on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island. Interview with Mike Turner about the ascent.
Appeal by Salavat Rakhmetov for his daughter Zaila
28/05/2010 - Climbing
Appeal by Salavat Rakhmetov for his daughter Zaila
Following a serious accident to his daughter Zaila, the Russian climber Salavat Rakhmetov has launched an appeal to the entire climbing community.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro
24/05/2010 - Alpinism
Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro
On 23 May Silvio Mondinelli, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Abele Blanc, Michele Enzio and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Everest from Tibet. On 22 May Simone Moro reached the summit, once again with the use of supplementary oxygen.
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
19/05/2010 - Alpinism
Checkmate by the Riegler brothers on Gran Zebrù
In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the North Face of Gran Zebrù.
Lhotse new variation by Denis Urubko
18/05/2010 - Alpinism
Lhotse new variation by Denis Urubko
On 16/05/2010 the Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko reached the summit of Lhotse via a new variation from the South Col.
Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
17/05/2010 - Alpinism
Shisha Pangma: 14th 8000er for Edurne Pasaban, 11th for Mario Panzeri
On 17 May Edurne Pasaban from Spain reached the summit of Shisha Pangma, completing her tour of the 14 highest mountains in the world. She summited along with Italian Mario Panzeri (11th 8000er).
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
17/05/2010 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
On 15/05/2010 the first of the seven stage Bouldering World Cup 2010 was won in Greifensee (Switzerland) by Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and Alex Johnson (USA). Adam Ondra (CZE) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) placed second, while Christian Core (ITA) and Chloé Graftiaux (BEL) finished third.
Riccardo Scarian frees two new routes in Val Noana, Dolomites
17/05/2010 - Climbing
Riccardo Scarian frees two new routes in Val Noana, Dolomites
At the end of April Riccardo Scarian freed two new routes in Val Noana (Dolomites), Shantaram 8c and Hatù per tu 8b+.

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