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How to strip a climb with dubious anchor bolts
28/04/2026 - Climbing
How to strip a climb with dubious anchor bolts
Cleaning a sport climb with dubious lower-offs, or retreating from a route with questionable protection, can sometimes be dangerous. UIAA mountain guide Jan Schneider from Germany illustrates a technique using a Prusik loop that increases safety while retrieving climbing gear.
Will Stanhope perishes after climbing accident in Squamish, Canada
27/04/2026 - Climbing
Will Stanhope perishes after climbing accident in Squamish, Canada
Canadian climber Will Stanhope has died as a result of a climbing accident in Squamish, British Columbia. Aged 39, the certified mountain guide was regarded as one of North America's leading rock climbers.
Mont Blanc speed record set by Samuel Equy & Mathéo Jacquemoud in 4:41
Mont Blanc speed record set by Samuel Equy & Mathéo Jacquemoud in 4:41
French alpinists Samuel Equy and Mathéo Jacquemoud have set a new Chamonix - Mont Blanc round trip record, stopping the clock after 4 hours 41 minutes. In doing so they beat the previous Fastest Known Time by 2 minutes, set by William Boffelli in June 2025.
Bernadette McDonald wins 2026 Ulsan Ulju Mountain Culture Award
24/04/2026 - Events
Bernadette McDonald wins 2026 Ulsan Ulju Mountain Culture Award
The Ulsan Ulju Mountain Film Festival (UMFF) has announced Bernadette McDonald as the recipient of the 2026 Ulsan Ulju Mountain Culture Award. McDonald is an acclaimed author and researcher whose decades-long work in mountain literature and cinema has advanced global mountain culture. The 11th Ulsan Ulju Mountain Film Festival will...
Melloblocco | 2026 Program for Val Masino & Val di Mello bouldering meeting
23/04/2026 - Events
Melloblocco | 2026 Program for Val Masino & Val di Mello bouldering meeting
The anticipation is building for this year's Melloblocco, scheduled from 6 to 9 May 2026 in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy. .With just two weeks to go, organisers have now released the program for thebiggest bouldering and climbing meeting in the world.
N as in… Nordland! Ski mountaineering in solitude around Narvik in Norway
N as in… Nordland! Ski mountaineering in solitude around Narvik in Norway
The report by mountain guide Giancarlo Maritano of a short ski touring trip in Norway, not to the more famous Lofoten Islands and the Tromsø area, but to the Nordland county. Based in Narvik, the group skied the peaks of Rivtind (1452m), Storfjellet (1633m), Nevertind (1420m) and Spanstinden (1457m), discovering...
France dominates Patrouille des Glaciers 2026 skimo competition in Switzerland
21/04/2026 - Competitions
France dominates Patrouille des Glaciers 2026 skimo competition in Switzerland
The classic Patrouille des Glaciers ski mountaineering competition took place in the Swiss Alps from April 13th–19th and was won by the French teams comprised of Axelle Gachet Mollaret, Margot Ravinel and Célia Perrillat Pessy, and Xavier Gachet, Samuel Equy, and William Bon Mardion. Organised by the Swiss Army, the...
Jorassique Pâques, big new French climb on the Grandes Jorasses
20/04/2026 - Alpinism
Jorassique Pâques, big new French climb on the Grandes Jorasses
From 3 to 6 April 2026, French alpinists Pierre Girot, Kilian Moni, Hugo Peruzzo and Arthur Poindefert established 'Jorassique Pâques' on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Graded ED+ M7 A3, the 1100-metre route climbs to Pointe Whymper on the north face. Poindefert reports.
Janez Jeglič Memorial Competition returns to Osp, Slovenia
17/04/2026 - Events
Janez Jeglič Memorial Competition returns to Osp, Slovenia
The steep walls of Osp in Slovenia will host the Janez Jeglič – Johan Memorial competition, in memory of the famous Slovenian mountaineer who perished on Nupste in 1997. Scheduled from 7- 9 May 2026, the event is accepting applications from international climbers
Connor Herson repeats Bon Voyage, E12 trad at Annot
14/04/2026 - Climbing
Connor Herson repeats Bon Voyage, E12 trad at Annot
Late last year American climber Connor Herson repeated 'Bon Voyage', James Pearson's trad masterpiece at Annot in France.
Marie Pollet-Villard & Laurie Renoton claim women's record on Chamonix - Zermatt Haute Route
Marie Pollet-Villard & Laurie Renoton claim women's record on Chamonix - Zermatt Haute Route
Marie Pollet-Villard and Laurie Renoton from France have set the new female fastest known time on the famous Haute Route Chamonix Zermatt, requiring just 20:30 hours for the circa 100km traverse. The previous best was set by Valentine Fabre and Hillary Gerardi just three days earlier.
Mamma Anna mixed climb added to Punte di Campiglio in Brenta Dolomites (Italy)
13/04/2026 - Alpinism
Mamma Anna mixed climb added to Punte di Campiglio in Brenta Dolomites (Italy)
On 8 April 2026, on the northwest face of Punte di Campiglio in the Brenta Dolomites, Emanuele Andreozzi, Ruggero Samaden and Silvestro Franchini established the mixed route 'Mamma Anna' (300m, WI5, M6). Franchini reports.
Laura Pineau & Elsa Ponzo climb 100 multipitch routes in Provence in 43 days
10/04/2026 - Climbing
Laura Pineau & Elsa Ponzo climb 100 multipitch routes in Provence in 43 days
French climber Laura Pineau reports on her latest adventure: climbing 100 multi-pitch routes in Provence in under 50 days with Elsa Ponzo. Calanques, Verdon, Dentelles de Montmirail, Cap Canaille, Destel, Sainte-Victoire... 100 climbs, 681 pitches and a total of 17,765 vertical meters in 43 days.
La Muse du Trient established on Tête Biselx by Fay Manners, Ella Wright
08/04/2026 - Alpinism
La Muse du Trient established on Tête Biselx by Fay Manners, Ella Wright
On the 3rd and 4th of April 2026 Fay Manners and Ella Wright made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Muse du Trient' on the NNE face of Tête de Biselx in the Mont Blanc massif.
Sung Su Lee ticks Alphane, Makoto Yamauchi sends Burden of Dreams
05/04/2026 - Climbing
Sung Su Lee ticks Alphane, Makoto Yamauchi sends Burden of Dreams
On 3 April 2026 Sung Su Lee from South Korea repeated Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland. A day later, Makoto Yamauchi from Japan repeated 'Burden of Dreams' at Lappnor in Finland. Both boulder problems are graded 9A.
Historic Torrioni di Masua crag in Sardinia rebolted
03/04/2026 - Climbing
Historic Torrioni di Masua crag in Sardinia rebolted
Rebolting in Sardinia: thanks to Marco Bigatti, Bruno Fonnesu, Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti, 40 sport climbs have been rebolted at the historic crag Torrioni di Masua in southwest corner of the island. The report on the recent restyling by Oviglia.

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