30 News found

We are reproducing, courtesy of the Gorizia section of the Italian Mountaineering Club, the account of the historic first winter ascent of 'Diedro Nord' of Piccolo Mangart di Coritenza in the Julian Alps. Also referred to as 'Diedro Cozzolino', this dihedral was climbed solo by the Italian alpinist Renato Casarotto...

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.

The Ettore Canzio Bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli Bivouac at aiguille noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic Alpine Club, owner of the huts, provides the details.

On the east face Mont Noir de Peutérey Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza and Michele Tixi established the mixed route 'Toxic Mushroom'.

On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...

From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the aiguille noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in the Mont Blanc massif.

The video portrait of 61-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Silvo Karo who was awarded with the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière 2022 last weekend at Briançon in France.

Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first ascents from the Alps to Patagonia. By Bulgarian journalist Tanya...

Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...

On 23/09/2022 Filip Babicz climbed Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif in just 49 minutes solo and without a rope via the Swiss Route and O Sole Mio exit.

In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.

Polish rock climber Filip Babicz has repeated Appointment with Death, the E9 6c gritstone climb at Wimberry Rocks in England. Babicz made the fifth ascent without crashpad and rope-solo.

British mountaineers Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker have climbed Mad Vlad (350m M7 R, IX/8). This is likely to be a new route on the ENE Face of aiguille noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif.

On Friday 10 September 2021 Filip Babicz climbed the North Ridge of Pizzo Badile in 42 minutes and 52 seconds.

On 27/08/2020 Filip Babicz soloed the South Ridge of aiguille noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in a blazing time of 1:30:14.

Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.