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Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
On 23/01/2011 Giuseppe Ballico and Marco Milanesi carried out what is believe to be the first ascent of Solo per i tuoi occhi (300m, V, WI 5+ XRM), the massive drip on the ESE Face of Monte Pelmo, Dolomites.
Tito Traversa, a summer and winter on the rise
01/02/2011 - Climbing
Tito Traversa, a summer and winter on the rise
A report of a summer and winter spent climbing by Tito Traversa who, aged nine, has now sent his first 8b, "Je est un autre" at Castillon (France)
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.
Il Regalo della Befana, new icefall in Val Grande, Dolomites
21/01/2011 - Alpinism
Il Regalo della Befana, new icefall in Val Grande, Dolomites
On 6/01/2011 the Italians Dario De Rossi, Renato Bortolato & C., carried out what is thought to be the first ascent of Il Regalo della Befana (110m II,4), inVal Grande (Santo Stefano di Cadore, Belluno, Dolomites).
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
18/01/2011 - Events
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
On 22 December 2010 the Slovenian alpinists Francek Knez and Silvo Karo were awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia's President Dr. Danilo Tuerk. This high state decoration was confirmed on the pair for "their achievements in Slovenian mountain climbing and for their contributions to the reputation of Slovenian mountaineering...
Dripping Elegance, new mixed route in Austria's Ötztal
13/01/2011 - Alpinism
Dripping Elegance, new mixed route in Austria's Ötztal
Albert Leichtfried and Gerry Fiegl have established Dripping Elegance (M10/WI5+ 110m) in the Ötztal in Austria.
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
08/01/2011 - Alpinism
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
American alpinists Colin Haley, Mikey Schaefer and Jens Holsten have established 'Jardines Japoneses', (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1) on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia.
Dario Corradi has left us, Daone Ice Master World Cup cancelled
04/01/2011 - Competitions
Dario Corradi has left us, Daone Ice Master World Cup cancelled
48-year-old Dario Corradi, commissioner for agriculture and forestry in Daone, died yesterday at Trento. The Daone Ice Master World Cup, of which Corradi was an active promoter, has been cancelled as a sign of mourning and respect.
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
04/01/2011 - Alpinism
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
At the end of 2010 James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Renan Ozturk and Alex Honnold established a series of new routes in the Ennedi Range in Chad.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Freeride skiing in the Alta Badia, Dolomites
Freeride skiing in the Alta Badia, Dolomites
A brief introduction to seven freeride itineraries in Alta Badia, Dolomites, by Mountain Guide Francesco Tremolada.
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
30/12/2010 - Alpinism
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
Over a four day period in winter 2007 the experienced Swiss ice climbers Markus Stofer and Bernd Rathmayr established "Scharf, mit alles…" in the Gasterntal close to Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
29/12/2010 - Alpinism
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
On 21 December Giuseppe 'Beppe' Ballico and Marco Milanese climbed "Cascata Per Leo" (270m, IV, WI 5+ XR) a beautiful icefall which rarely comes into condition on the SW Face of Croda Marcora (Sorapiss, Dolomites).
Two icefalls in Valle dell'Orco and Piantonetto
27/12/2010 - Alpinism
Two icefalls in Valle dell'Orco and Piantonetto
"La Cascata delle miniere" in Valle dell'Orco and "Ciao TFR" in Vallone di Piantonetto, two icefalls in Northern Italy climbed by Marco Appino, Umberto Bado, Mauro Appino and Renzo Vottero.
Lunag II in Nepal by French team
22/12/2010 - Alpinism
Lunag II in Nepal by French team
At the end of October a four-man French team comprised of Max Belleville, Mathieu Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier, and Seb Ratel carried out the first ascent of Lunag II (6830m) Nepal.
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.

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