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Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
On Saturday, 11/06/2016 Enrico Rosso, Pietro Sella and Antonio Zavattarelli made the first ascent of Mindfulness, a new climb up Rumi Mallku (5900m), Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes. A few days earlier, the 'Illampu 2016' expedition members teamed up with Davide Vitale to make the first repeat of the SW Ridge...
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Maybe, chasing the Snowleopard
28/06/2016 - Alpinism
Maybe, chasing the Snowleopard
The trailer of the brief documentary that tells the story of the Piedmontese mountaineer Carlalberto Cimenti and his experience in the wild territory of the ex-Soviet Union as he attempts to receive the prestigious ‘Snow Leopard’ prize, awarded by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
26/06/2016 - Competitions
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
The 2017 ISMF World Cup season contains 11 races in 5 different countries including, for the first time, Turkey. The traditional Grande Course competitions will no longer be part of the World Cup circuit.
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
24/06/2016 - Climbing
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
Bouldering: after a 13-year courtship verging on the obsession, Swiss climber Martin Keller has amde the first ascent of The Highlander, an 8C problem at Sustenpass in Switzerland.
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
23/06/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
Sport climbing news: on 16/06/2016 at Flatanger in Norway Adam Ondra made the first ascent of the 9a+ climb 120 Degrees. And while the talented Japanese Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma have now reached this cave, at Oliana in Spain Klemen Bečan from Slovenia has repeated his second 9a+, Papichulo.
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
21/06/2016 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
Following legislation issued earlier today by the Municipality of Rocca Pietore, it is forbidden to climb the route Via dell’Ideale up Punta Rocca (Punta d'Ombretta), Marmolada south face, Dolomites from 21 June to 15 July 2016.
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
21/06/2016 - Competitions
Italian Lead Cup, Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta win at L'Aquila
On Sunday, June 19 the third stage of the Italian Lead Cup was won o Villa San Angelo, L'Aquila, by Claudia Ghisolfi and Alberto Gotta.
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
20/06/2016 - Gear
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
The Grivel Twin Gate carabiner has won the prestigious award Compasso d’oro ADI 2016, category Design for the individual.
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...
Underground climbed by Jacopo Larcher at Massone, Arco
16/06/2016 - Climbing
Underground climbed by Jacopo Larcher at Massone, Arco
The report by Italian climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Underground, the 9a sports climb freed in 1998 by Manfred Stuffer at Massone close to Arco (Lake Garda – Trentino), Italy.
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.

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