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Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
Last weekend Dave Birkett climbed what is being hailed as one of the most important new winter routes in Britain's Lake District for the last quarter of a century, Never Ever Say Never VIII 8 or E7 5c on Scafell's East Buttress.
Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
02/02/2010 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
The strong Italian climber Enrico Baistrocchi has managed the first repeat of the boudlery Oniyx 8c, first ascended by Markus Bock at Chironico, Switzerland. Massimo Malpezzi has the story.
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
Centercourt, the new extreme testpiece first climbed by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner at the start of Janauary, has been repeated twice, by the Slovenians Aljaz Anderle and Klemen Premrl and the Austrians Rudolf Hauser and Helmut Holleis.
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).
Ice climbing in Valle di Tures
29/01/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Valle di Tures
A selection of ice climbs in Valle di Tures, South Tyrol, Italy
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new route to Torres del Paine, Patagonia
28/01/2010 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr add new route to Torres del Paine, Patagonia
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have recently returned from their trip to Patagonia where despite terrible weather conditions they managed to forge "Waiting for Godot" (750m, 7b) along the East Face of Central Tower to the Col which separates the Central and North Tower.
Bendler and Maureau win Saas Fee stage of Ice Climbing World Cup 2010
26/01/2010 - Competitions
Bendler and Maureau win Saas Fee stage of Ice Climbing World Cup 2010
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup took place in Saas Fee last weekend and was won by Markus Bendler from Austria and Stéphanie Maureau from France.
Zero 70, new icefall in Valle di Champorcher, Italy
25/01/2010 - Alpinism
Zero 70, new icefall in Valle di Champorcher, Italy
On 15 January 2010 Giampiero Bertotti, Stefano dalla Gasperina, Enrico Bonino and Sofia Palmisano carried out the first ascent of Zero 70 (100m, 5/5+ II) in Valle di Champorcher (Valle d'Aosta).
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
20/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
Ice World Cup 2010, Markus Bendler and Chloe Graftiaux win in Daone
18/01/2010 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2010, Markus Bendler and Chloe Graftiaux win in Daone
On 17/01/2010 Markus Bendler from Austria and Chloe Graftiaux from Belgium won the ninth Ice Master di Daone, valid as the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2010.
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
17/01/2010 - Events
Ouray Ice Festival 2010
The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
15/01/2010 - Alpinism
Colin Haley and the video of his solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia
The video of American alpinist Colin Haley's 20/12/2009 solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia, via the Amy route. The film was made by Haley with a video camera mounted on his helmet.
Casal Pianos, rock climbing in Portugal
14/01/2010 - Climbing
Casal Pianos, rock climbing in Portugal
Isabel Boavida introduces the recently discovered Casal Pianos. Located 30km from Lisbon in Portugal, this crag currently hosts 55 routes up to 7c.
Brunnital, ice climbing in Switzerland
11/01/2010 - Alpinism
Brunnital, ice climbing in Switzerland
Swiss Mountain Guide Urs Odermatt introduces the Brunnital, one of the most important ice climbing venues in Switzerland.
Cascata di Rochemolles, Val di Susa, Italy
08/01/2010 - Alpinism
Cascata di Rochemolles, Val di Susa, Italy
A splendid icefall first ascended by M. Bernardi, G.C. Grassia and F. Salino almost 30 years ago at Vallone di Rochemolles (Val di Susa, Piemonte, Italy).
Casal Pianos, new crack climbing area in Portugal
07/01/2010 - Climbing
Casal Pianos, new crack climbing area in Portugal
Climbing in Portugal has become more varied thanks to the recent discovery of the basalt sea cliff Casal Pianos. Located close to Lisbon, this crack trad cliff hosted an international meeting called "Pianos Rachados" in November.