287 News found

Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the South Face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.

Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.

Michele Caminati talks about the broken hold on Dreamtime, the legendary boulder problem established by Fred Nicole in 2000 at Cresciano, Switzerland.

Interview with Riccardo Scarian who on 27/10/2009 climbed the second half of Masada on Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites), and freed the crux pitch at 8b.

On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.

On 03/10/2009 Luca Zardini made the frst ascent of "Welcome to the club" at the Campo boulders at Cortina d'Ampezzo which he believes is 9a.

A Swiss team comprised of Ivan Tresch, Michi Tresch, Tom Holzhauser and Dominik Angehrn has established Los Tigres del Norte (7c, 1200m) the first free route up Cerro Capicua in Cochamo Valley, Chile.

Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.

In August 2009 Kilian Fischhuber from Austria freed Airstar Fb8b, a long-standing problem at Rocklands, South Africa.

Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque his fourth. With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand.

On 24/08/2009 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla made the first ascent of "Eternit", the extension to "O ce l’hai… o ne hai bisogno" at Baule. The grade put forward is 9a but above all Manolo believes this route has taken his vertical slab climbing into a completely new dimension.

On 12 and 13 June the 5th and final stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2009 will take place in Eindhoven, Netherlands. The race for supremacy is between Rustam Gelmanov and Kilian Fischhuber, while Noguchi Akiyo is favourite for the women's category, ahead of Anna Stöhr.

On a quick visit to Hueco Tanks, Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent of The Machinist V13 and Tequila Sunrise V13.

Last weekend Gabriele Moroni visited the historic Lumignano Classica in N. Italy and returned home with a climbing sweep-stake: flash ascents of Boomerang 8a+ and Atomic Café 8a, and a fantastic 2nd go ascent of Mare Allucinante 8b+.

Albert Leichtfried, one of the best ice climbers of his generation, examines the state of drytooling in Austria and reports about his new route 'Encore' M13 at the Dryland above Innsbruck

At the end of September Angelika Rainer carried out the first female ascent of Italia 61 (220m, 8a),the historic aid route on Piz Ciavazes, Sella, Dolomites.