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Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
Adam Ondra, bone marrow donor
11/04/2011 - Events
Adam Ondra, bone marrow donor
Adam Ondra has become a bone marrow donor. Pietro Dal Pra and Giovanni Spitale of Climb for Life explain this important gesture for donors and the climbing community.
Supercrack of the Desert at Indian Creek
01/04/2011 - Climbing
Supercrack of the Desert at Indian Creek
The video of the historic first ascent of Supercrack of the Desert, at Indian Creek in Utah (USA), established in 1976 by Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster and Bryan Becker.
Climb for life - give bone marrow
08/03/2011 - Events
Climb for life - give bone marrow
CLIMB FOR LIFE-GIVE BONE MARROW is aimed at all climbers worldwide who wish to do something good and donate bone marrow. Italian climber Pietro Dal Prà presents the initiative.
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
01/03/2011 - Alpinism
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
On 01/02/2011 Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz and Thomas Scalise Meynet carried out the first repeat of Papillon (250m IV, 4, M6, 5°) a great modern mixed journey first ascended in 2003 in Valle d'Aosta above Brissogne by Alex Busca, Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Hard female climbs at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya in Spain
07/12/2010 - Climbing
Hard female climbs at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya in Spain
Daila Ojeda has redpointed "Full Equip" 8c at Oliana while Angela Eiter has sent "Ingravids Eskerps" 8c/c+ at Santa Linya, Spain.
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Maurizio, Manolo, Mago
06/10/2010 - Climbing
Maurizio, Manolo, Mago
Eternit, the slab. Andrea Gallo and a day's climbing with Maurizio Manolo Zanolla at Baule (Dolomites, Italy)
Sulamar North Face first ascent by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
04/10/2010 - Alpinism
Sulamar North Face first ascent by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have carried out the first ascent of the North Face of Sulamar, China
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
30/04/2010 - Book-press
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
Wolverine Publishing is due to launch the first comprehensive iPhone app for Red River Gorge in Kentucky, USA. Planetmountain took a brief look at this new digital content.
Rock climbing in Cuba
16/04/2010 - Climbing
Rock climbing in Cuba
Armando Menocal explores the delights of climbing in Cuba around the Valle de Vinales and suggests 40 superb routes at the main crag Mogote del Valle.
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
14/04/2010 - Climbing
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
Angelika Rainer and her repeat of Outsider at Cornalba.
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
11/02/2010 - Alpinism
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.

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