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Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was established in December 2018 by Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski.
Uncut: watch Stefano Ghisolfi make first ascent of Excalibur (9b+)
31/05/2024 - Climbing
Uncut: watch Stefano Ghisolfi make first ascent of Excalibur (9b+)
The uncut climbing video of Stefano Ghisolfi making the first ascent of 'Excalibur' (9b+) close to Arco, Italy. Graded 9b+, this checks in as one of the hardest sport climbs in the world
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
28/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
Eddie Fowke reports about the first leg of the Olympic Qualifier Series held in Shanghai 10 days ago. The second leg will take place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June and the combined results will enable the world’s best competition climbers to gain a place for the Paris...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
22/05/2024 - Alpinism
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
A three-man Chilean expedition comprised of Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret and Nicolas Secul Ojeda has successfully climbed Monte Sarmiento West summit in Patagonia. Climbed alpine style, this is only the 4th ascent of the remote peak and the first repeat of the original route up the mountain, established in 1986...
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
15/05/2024 - Climbing
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
Swiss climber Didier Berthod has repeated Cobra Crack at Squamish in Canada. Freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2006 and hailed as one of the hardest crack climbs in the world at the time, this fierce splitter was almost freed by Berthod in 2005.
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
10/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
Friday 9 May, the third day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. Lots of sun, lots of smiles and bouldering until the batteries ran out.
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
09/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
Thursday 9 May, the second day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. A day marked by sun, boulders, projects, pads and pizzoccheri.
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
08/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
Melloblocco 2024 day 1: the biggest bouldering meeting in the world officially begins today in Northern Italy, and Val Masino and Val di Mello have already welcomed the first climbers.
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
02/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
Melloblocco 2024 is just a few days away and preparations are in full swing. From 8 to 11 May 2024 Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, will host the largest bouldering meeting in the world.
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
30/04/2024 - Climbing
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
On the SW Face of Jebel Oujdad Iñaki Marco and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of 'Bihotz Handi' (7c/320m).
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
29/04/2024 - Climbing
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
British climber Mat Wright has repeated Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006.