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Vail victories for Jongwon Chon and Shauna Coxsey
11/06/2017 - Competitions
Vail victories for Jongwon Chon and Shauna Coxsey
The fifth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2017 was won on Saturday 10 June in Vail, Colorado, USA by South Korea’s Jongwon Chon and by Britain’s Shauna Coxsey.
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.
Cengia Giradili, the panoramic new crag in Sardinia
20/04/2017 - Climbing
Cengia Giradili, the panoramic new crag in Sardinia
Richard Felderer introduces the new crag Cengia Giradili at the foot of famous Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia. 22 new routes from 5b to 8b in a spectacularly beautiful setting.
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
07/04/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck on the eve of departure for Nepal where he will attempt to complete one of the most amitious projects in Himalayan mountaineering: the coveted first Everest - Lhotse traverse.
Melloblocco to host Italian Bouldering Championship 2017
07/03/2017 - Competitions
Melloblocco to host Italian Bouldering Championship 2017
From 12-13 May the Italian Bouldering Championship 2017 will take place during Melloblocco, the world’s biggest bouldering and climbing meeting scheduled to take place from Thursday 11 to Sunday 14 May 2017 in Val Masino - Val di Mello (Italy).
Campitello di Fassa to host the IFSC European Climbing Championships 2017
26/02/2017 - Climbing
Campitello di Fassa to host the IFSC European Climbing Championships 2017
The small town Campitello in Val di Fassa, Italy, will host the sport climbing European Championships Lead and Speed from 29 June to 1 July 2017. This is only the second time this prestigious climbing competition is disputed in Italy.
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
01/02/2017 - Alpinism
Romano Benet and Tine Cuder control Hysteria, a new icefall in Val Raccolana
Winter mountaineering: first ascent video and interview with Romano Benet who, with Slovenia's Tine Cuder, made the first ascent of the new icefall Hysteria at Rio Vandul in Val Raccolana (Italy).
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 won in Corvara by HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song
01/02/2017 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 won in Corvara by HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song
The last stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup was held last weekend in Corvara; HeeYong Park and Han Na Rai Song won both the stage in Val Passiria and the overall World Cup. The fastest Speed climbers were Pavel Batushev and Ekaterina Feoktistova, while the Speed World Cup was...
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great...
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
05/01/2017 - Alpinism
El Chico, Dry tooling enchainment by Bonino and Colay up Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc
Alpinism: on 7/12/2016 Enrico Bonino and Olivier Colay made a dry-tooling reinterpretation of the routes Pinelli-Sabbadini, Lenoir and Ottoz, to forge El Chico (M6+ 4° 250m) on Pyramide Du Tacul, Mont Blanc massif.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
19/12/2016 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2017: Alexey Dengin and Shin Woonseon win in USA
The first stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Durango, Colorado, USA, last weekend and was won by Russia’s Alexey Dengin and Korea’s Shin Woonseon. The Speed event was won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Nikolai Kuzovlev.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.

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