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Hervé Barmasse, Patagonia and three first winter ascents
23/10/2013 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Patagonia and three first winter ascents
In September Hervé Barmasse with Martin Castrillo made the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and with Martin Castrillo and Pedrito el "fino" the first ascent (in winter) of two of the three Colmillos summits in the Cordon Marconi area.
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
08/10/2013 - Alpinism
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata introduce their variation to Li-Cuore (450m, VII+, A3, VII- obl.) that climbs between the South Tyrolean route and Via Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner (Dolomites).
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
27/09/2013 - Interviews
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
Interview with Chilean alpinist Camilo Rada after the first ascent, carried out with Natalia Martinez from Argentina, of a new route up the North Face of Monte Sarmiento in Patagonia. Suerte de Sarmiento is only the second route to the East summit after the first ascent carried out by Clemente...
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
21/08/2013 - Alpinism
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari retraces the route established by Claude Barbier and Jean Bourgeois on Torre del Lago (Fanis group, Dolomites) on 4 August 1964.
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...
The Sunflower of the Dolomites: Ivo Ferrari and the Pilastro Girasole on Cimòn della Pala
01/08/2013 - Alpinism
The Sunflower of the Dolomites: Ivo Ferrari and the Pilastro Girasole on Cimòn della Pala
Ivo Ferrari and Pilastro Girasole, the route first climbed in 1986 by Renzo and Giacomo Corona up the SW Face of Cimon della Pala, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
24/07/2013 - Alpinism
Diamante pazzo on Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and diamonds are forever. On via Diamante pazzo (250m, 6a+) the beautiful route established in 1984 by Roberto Perucca and Rinaldo Sartore up the East Face of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, Gran Paradiso, Italy. With a text by Gianmario Bellini in memory of Roberto Perucca.
Red Bull X-Alps 2013 and the Italian athletes: Andy Frötscher
28/06/2013 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2013 and the Italian athletes: Andy Frötscher
Andy Frötscher from Klobenstein (BZ) is the veteran of the Red Bull X-Alps 2013, he has competed in all editions. On July 7th he will leave for his sixth crossing paragliding and running across the Alps from Salzburg to Monaco. With Aaron Durogati and Peter Gebhard to defend the Italian...
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
10/06/2013 - Climbing
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi), one of...
Red Bull X-Alps 2013: July take off!
05/06/2013 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2013: July take off!
On 7 July the Red Bull X-Alps 2013 gets underway, the immensely difficult race on foot or by paraglider from Salzburg in Austria to the Principality of Monaco. 32 athletes from 21 countries will take part, including three Italians: Aaron Durogati, Peter Gebhard and Andy Frötscher.
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24/05/2013 - Climbing
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Melloblocco 10, the book
24/05/2013 - Book-press
Melloblocco 10, the book
Photos, texts, stories and meetings of the first 10 years of Melloblocco: the book that retraces the history of the international bouldering festival which, ever since 2004, has taken place in Italy's Val Masino Val di Mello.
A short walk to the waterfall Crap de Scegn in Valdidentro
22/05/2013 - Trekking
A short walk to the waterfall Crap de Scegn in Valdidentro
Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi describes the short walk to the spectacular waterfall Cascata al Crap de Scegn, located above the village Isolaccia in Valdidentro, Alta Valtellina, Italy.
Melloblocco 2013, more than just bouldering with the Lombardy Mountain Guides
22/04/2013 - Events
Melloblocco 2013, more than just bouldering with the Lombardy Mountain Guides
During Melloblocco 2013 the Lombardy Mountain Guides offers four free "MelloClinics" dedicated to single and multi-pitch rock climbing in Val di Mello to raise awareness about what the valley has to offer apart from its endless bouldering opportunities. In addition the guides will organise walks into the most fascinating, hidden...
Königsspitze ski mountaineering in Italy
18/04/2013 - Alpinism
Königsspitze ski mountaineering in Italy
Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi introduces the classic ski mountaineering to the summit of Königsspitze, one of the most beautiful and sought-after peaks in the Alps.
Sass Dlacia north couloir in the Dolomites
Sass Dlacia north couloir in the Dolomites
On 04/04/2013 Francesco Tremolada and Norbert Frenademetz skied the North Couloir of Sass Dlacia in the Dolomites.

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