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James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
10/06/2021 - Climbing
James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
British rock climber James Taylor has made the first ascent of Prisoners of the Sun, an impressively difficult and dangerous E10 7a trad climb at Rhoscolyn on Holy Island, Anglesey, Wales.
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
09/06/2021 - Climbing
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
Massone, Nago, Belvedere, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Calvario: five crags you must visit to savour the best sport climbing around Arco and Lake Garda. This is the first article in a series made with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of its 'Learn to Climb with...
Jonas Schild sends Bain de Sang at Saint Loup in Switzerland
07/06/2021 - Climbing
Jonas Schild sends Bain de Sang at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 4 May 2021 Swiss mountain guide Jonas Schild repeated Bain de Sang, the classic 9a at Saint Loup in Switzerland first ascended by Fred Nicole in 1993.
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
06/06/2021 - Climbing
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
This summer and autumn the picturesque Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley hosts the third edition of Tiro Leader, a climbing challenge to free two difficult sport climbs at the historic crag La città di Uruk. The first to free the routes bolted by Federica Mingolla and Alberto...
Alessandro Larcher greenpoints Bombo Balla, 8b+ trad at Bus de Vela
04/06/2021 - Climbing
Alessandro Larcher greenpoints Bombo Balla, 8b+ trad at Bus de Vela
Alessandro Larcher reports about his greenpoint ascent of Bombo Balla at Bus de Vela above Trento, Italy. Put in other words, the Italian rock climber repeated the 8b+ sport climb in October 2020 skipping the bolts and as a trad climb.
Monte Colodri, Arco: Via per Giuliano established by Marco Pellegrini, Francesco Salvaterra
21/05/2021 - Alpinism
Monte Colodri, Arco: Via per Giuliano established by Marco Pellegrini, Francesco Salvaterra
On the south face of Monte Colodri in Arco in Italy, the mountain guides Francesco Salvaterra and Marco Pellegrini have established a new multi-pitch dedicated to Giuliano Stenghel. Salvaterra reports and the topo
Brittany Goris free climbs Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
10/05/2021 - Alpinism
Brittany Goris free climbs Salathé Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite
American rock climber Brittany Goris has made a rare free ascent of the Salathé Wall on El Capitan.
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
06/05/2021 - Climbing
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.
Simon Gietl quests Can you hear me? on Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites
28/04/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl quests Can you hear me? on Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites
The first ascent video of Can you hear me? on Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites, the 550m multi-pitch first ascended rope solo by Simon Gietl in memory of his friend Gerhard Fiegl.
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
27/04/2021 - Climbing
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
After the magnificent limestone crags at Finale Ligure, the second stage of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy stops off at Sperlonga, the hotspot for sport climbing development in Central Italy during the 1980’s.
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
06/04/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora and Chalten sin Chapas” (Chalten without bolts) with Matías Korten.
Seán Villanueva, Jon Griffin climb 'King line' on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
10/03/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva, Jon Griffin climb 'King line' on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
On the south face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia the alpinists Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll and Jonathan Griffin have made the first ascent of La Chaltenense (500m, 7a), a huge offwidth described by the first ascensionists as a 'king line'.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
24/02/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
17/02/2021 - Alpinism
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
Maximilian Buck reports about the first winter ascent of Franz Rasp Ged. Weg up the huge east face of Watzmann (Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany), carried out in December 2020 with Lando Peters.
Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk climb Lila Luna, direct start to Sot la sesa at Mulegns
16/02/2021 - Alpinism
Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk climb Lila Luna, direct start to Sot la sesa at Mulegns
Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of Lila Luna, a direct start to the classic icefall Sot la sesa at Mulegns in Switzerland.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

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