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Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
29/10/2021 - Climbing
Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci free The Pirate in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
On the Casetti wall in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of Il Pirata (8a max, 160m), a new multipitch dedicated to legendary Italian cyclist Marco Pantani.
New variation added to Cima Gianni Costantini, Moiazza, Dolomites
20/10/2021 - Alpinism
New variation added to Cima Gianni Costantini, Moiazza, Dolomites
In August the Slovenian alpinists Andrej Grmovšek, Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindič teamed up with local Italian climber Alessandro Baù to add a new variation to the west face of Cima Gianni Costantini in the Moiazza group of the Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
06/09/2021 - Alpinism
Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about his 4 August first ascent with his daughter Anna Coubalová of Papilio (VII+, 235m) up the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites.
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
25/08/2021 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
German alpinists Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have managed to establish a new line on Pic de Bure in the Dauphiné Prealps in France. The route is a variation to the classic Pilier Est established in 1961 by André Bertrand, René Desmaison and Yves Pollet-Villard.
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
Pezonda, yet another new crag on Kalymnos in Greece
18/08/2021 - Climbing
Pezonda, yet another new crag on Kalymnos in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Pezond, an interesting new crag on the northeast coast of Kalymnos in Greece.
Peru's Huanka Punta provides another climb to Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
13/08/2021 - Alpinism
Peru's Huanka Punta provides another climb to Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Leire (300m, 6b) a new multi-pitch route on the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
09/08/2021 - Alpinism
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
On the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou e Manu Ponce have established Super Canalizos (6c+, 475m) describing the multi-pitch climb as a ‘perfect sculpture.’
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
05/08/2021 - Alpinism
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
Austrian mountain guide Christoph Schranz has established, and subsequently freed, Ocha-Schau-Schuich, a 300m multi-pitch alpine climb graded 8c on Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria
Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster add Sinnfresser to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
23/07/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster add Sinnfresser to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
Simon Messner and Philipp Prünster have made the first ascent of Sinnfresser, a new multi-pitch rock climb on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites.
New climb on Marmarole in the Dolomites by Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans
12/07/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Marmarole in the Dolomites by Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans
German climbers Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have made the first ascent of Wallride Vol. 1, a new route up Croda Bianca (2841m) in the Marmarole group, Dolomites as part of their Wallride project.
James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
10/06/2021 - Climbing
James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
British rock climber James Taylor has made the first ascent of Prisoners of the Sun, an impressively difficult and dangerous E10 7a trad climb at Rhoscolyn on Holy Island, Anglesey, Wales.
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
09/06/2021 - Climbing
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
Massone, Nago, Belvedere, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Calvario: five crags you must visit to savour the best sport climbing around Arco and Lake Garda. This is the first article in a series made with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of its 'Learn to Climb with...
Jonas Schild sends Bain de Sang at Saint Loup in Switzerland
07/06/2021 - Climbing
Jonas Schild sends Bain de Sang at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 4 May 2021 Swiss mountain guide Jonas Schild repeated Bain de Sang, the classic 9a at Saint Loup in Switzerland first ascended by Fred Nicole in 1993.
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
06/06/2021 - Climbing
Val Sapin Tiro Leader climbing challenge above Courmayeur in Valle d’Aosta
This summer and autumn the picturesque Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley hosts the third edition of Tiro Leader, a climbing challenge to free two difficult sport climbs at the historic crag La città di Uruk. The first to free the routes bolted by Federica Mingolla and Alberto...

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