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Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
13/12/2012 - Alpinism
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
Luigi 'Gigi' Dal Pozzo passed away on Monday 10 December 2012 after a long illness. A leading climber and alpinist from the Belluno area of Northern Italy, Gigi Dal Pozzo played a fundamental role in the evolution of climbing in the Dolomites. Sandro Neri remembers the climber.
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
19/11/2012 - Climbing
Continuing to dream of Patrick Edlinger
While the grief continues regarding the death Patrick Edlinger, we have published a portrait of this climbing legend that was first published in 2005 in the book Rock Master.
Climb for Life, a new website and campaign to raise awareness
05/11/2012 - Climbing
Climb for Life, a new website and campaign to raise awareness
The new website Climb for Life [www.climbforlife.it] went online on 1 October 2012. This aims at providing the climbing community with information about bone marrow donation. The initiative and new campaign to raise awareness is entitled: "You don’t have to be big".
Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
30/05/2012 - Alpinism
Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
Antonio Boscacci, the great climber, alpinist, mathematician, writer, photographer and one of the most visionary inventors of the new climbing in Val di Mello and further afield died tody aged 63 after battling long against illness.
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
13/04/2012 - Events
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
The ninth Melloblocco, the world's most important bouldering meeting, takes place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy from 3 - 6 May 2012.
Andamento lento, first repeat and winter ascent by Baù and Geremia
04/04/2012 - Alpinism
Andamento lento, first repeat and winter ascent by Baù and Geremia
On 25-26/02/2012 Alessandro Baù and Enrico Geremia carried out the first repeat, and first winter ascent, of the route Andamento Lento in Val Scura (Dolomites), established by Gigi Dal Pozzo, Maurizio Fontana and Venturino De Bona in 1997. The report by Alessandro Baù.
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
29/03/2012 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
From 28 February to 20 March Hansjörg Auer established The Music of Chance on the Kristallwand face up Kirchkogel in Austria
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
Record number of participants at the Vth Tris Rotondo in Val Bedretto, San Gothard
09/03/2012 - Competitions
Record number of participants at the Vth Tris Rotondo in Val Bedretto, San Gothard
A record number of athletes have signed up for most important ski mountaineering competition in the Gothard mountain range in Switzerland, scheduled to take place on Sunday 11 March in Val Bedretto.
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
11/11/2011 - Climbing
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Getu Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free a new 9a while Dani Andrada from Spain freed his...
Bernasconi and Pedeferri and the first winter ascent Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, Val di Mello
21/09/2011 - Alpinism
Bernasconi and Pedeferri and the first winter ascent Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, Val di Mello
The video of the first winter ascent of Spada nella Roccia, Qualido, in Val di Mello (Val Masino) carried out by Daniele Bernasconi and Simone Pedeferri in February 2011.
Walter Bonatti, goodbye
14/09/2011 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti, goodbye
Last night Walter Bonatti passed away. He was 81 years old and one of the greatest legends of alpinism of all times.
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
01/09/2011 - Alpinism
Mario Prinoth: Silbergeier and the Battisti - Weiss
On 2 August 2011 Italian climber Mario Prinoth carried out a rare repeat of Silbergeier (8b/8b+, 240m) in the Rätikon, Switzerland, while on 25 May he had managed to on-sight the via Battisti - Weiss (400m, max 8a+) on Spiz delle Roe de Ciampiè (Larsec, Catinaccio, Dolomites).
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
04/07/2011 - Climbing
Nina Caprez makes first female ascent of Silbergeier, Rätikon
Interview with Nina Caprez after the Swiss climber carried out the first female ascent of Silbergeier, shortly after her partner Cedric Lachat repeated the 240m 8b/8b+ in the Rätikon, Switzerland.