4022 News found

10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed? Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.

09/10/2014 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla repeats Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge On 2 October 2014 Italian climber Federica Mingolla repeated the spectacular climb Tom et je ris 8b+ in the Verdon Gorge, France. The report by Edoardo Falletta

08/10/2014 - Climbing
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014: kick-off! The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014 begins today. The international climbing meeting takes place on the island of Kalymnos, Greece, from 9 – 12 October 2014. More than 2500 climbers are expected for this third edition that will celebrate sport climbing with a handful of true climbing legends: Patxi...

03/10/2014 - Alpinism
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters Maurizio Oviglia dedicates two new routes in Sardinia to his daughters, Kawaii, climbed with his daughter Elena on the Placche dell'Elefante in Sarrabus and Sweet Helen, climbed with Cecilia Marchi and dedicated to their daughter Elena, on the Figlia di Guglia at Cala Goloritzè, Baunei. A chance to talk about...

03/10/2014 - Climbing
Leonidio and the crag Hot Rock in Greece Located in the Peloponnese, just 3.5 hours south of Athens, Leonidio is Greece's newest trendy area, with more than 20 crags and 300 routes; single and multi-pitch climbing up to 250m high, from 5a to 9a. Aris Theodoropoulos introduces one of the best crags in Europe for winter climbing.

02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...

01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...

01/10/2014 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair killed by avalanche in Patagonia On 29/09/2014 Swedish skier Andreas Fransson and Canadian skier JP Auclair were killed by an avalanche on Monte San Lorenzo in Patagonia, on the border between Chile and Argentina. Both were considered two of the world's premier skiers.

01/10/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island

30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.

26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).

23/09/2014 - Alpinism
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo...

19/09/2014 - Alpinism
International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment At the International Mountain Summit 2014, that will take place in Brixen, Italy, from 16 - 21 October there are two important days organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and his director Dott. Luigi Festi. The first, on 17 October, is entitled 'A mountain of words, images, emotions, colors'...

18/09/2014 - Climbing
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein, currently touring the Rocky Mountains National Park where the Dutchman recently sent The Wheel Of Chaos V14 (8B+) and the Austrian repeated Riddles in the Park V12 (8A+), provide insight into one of the most famous bouldering areas in the USA.

17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris...
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