1025 News found

29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...

26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.

13/11/2020 - Climbing
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan

06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...

26/10/2020 - Interviews
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview Interview with British rock climber James Pearson after the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher in 2019

26/10/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.

23/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts Alpinists Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed and impressive East Face of Mount Forbes (3612 m) in the Canadian Rockies.

19/10/2020 - Alpinism
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal On 20-21/08/2020 Czech alpinist Michel Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalova made the first ascent of The Hour Between Dog and Wolf, a new multi-pitch climb up the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip, Carnic Alps, Italy.

28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.

09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.

09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.

21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...

14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.

12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...

11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.

06/08/2020 - Environment
Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier The video by Bertrand Delpierre illustrating the retreat of the Mer de Glace glacier in the Mont Blanc massif.
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